Saturday
Black Skirt
974 College, at Rusholme, 416-532-7424, blackskirtrestaurant.com. After making a splash at Wish a few years ago, Rosa Gallé and Aggie Decina strike out on their own to bring old-school rustic Italiana back to the former Little Italy. A charming room, engaging service and a no-nonsense card of Sicilian home-cooking classics add up to a trip back to a simpler time. Best: to start, meaty white anchovies and garlicky chopped tomato on grilled Riviera baguette barely grilled skewers of lamb speducci splashed with olive oil pressed muffuletta panini spread with black-olive tapenade and piled with capicola, mortadella, sweet and hot soppressata and giardiniere pickles beefy breaded veal sandwiches in Decina-family tomato ragu dressed with provolone and grilled hot banana peppers secondi like veal ‘n’ ricotta ravioli finished with butter, freshly shaved parmigiano and fried sage leaves grilled New Zealand lamb chops in a balsamic reduction sided with mashed ‘n’ baked potatoes with mozzarell’ and sautéed rapini to finish, textbook tiramisu and pistachio-studded cannoli. Complete dinners for $50 per person (lunches $25), including tax, tip and a glass of Chianti. Average main $25/$13. Open for dinner Saturday 5 to 10 pm. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNNN
Julie’s
202 Dovercourt, at Argyle, 416-532-7397, juliescuban.com. A terrific Cuban cantina year round, this tucked-away trat on a sleepy west-side street really blooms come summer. As trees whisper overhead and candlelight reflects off wine glasses, affable hosts Jesus and Silvia dish up a classic pre-Castro Havana card that’s perfect for sharing à deux under a starry sky. Reservations, needless to say, are essential. Best: grilled and then pressed marinated pork, ham, pickle and Swiss Cubano sandwiches snacking tapas like three versions of the fried mashed-potato ball called papa rellena, one stuffed with lean ground beef, onion, tomato and green olives purposefully bland yuca con mojo laced with lime and garlic piquant tomato-sauced pork sausage chorizos in red wine subtly complex pork and beef hash (picadillo de mamita) with jalapeños, raisins, currants and almonds to finish, Margarita key lime pie. Complete dinners for $55 per person, including tax, tip and a glass of wine. Average main $18. Open for dinner Saturday from 5:30 pm. Bar till close. Licensed. Access: two steps at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN
Sunday
County General
936 Queen W, at Shaw, 416-531-4447, thecountygeneral.ca. Little wonder they’re already calling this spinoff from Splendido the new Hoof Café. Could be the similar all-day/late-night diner set-up, snout-to-tail brunchy carte and no-reservations policy. Show up early or mid-afternoon if you hope to get one of only 27 seats without the otherwise inevitable wait and kitchen delays. Best: to start, smoky ham and navy bean soup finished with coriander, scallion and croutons sandwiches like ripe heirloom tomato with lemony avocado chutney and aged cheddar on toasted Thuet sourdough house-smoked brisket and house-made sauerkraut with Gruyère and 1,000 Island dressing on rye à la Reuben, both sided with a glass tumbler of triple-blanched frites at brunch, the English breakfast of two fried peppery eggs sided with boudin noir sausage, smoked peameal bacon, sautéed ‘shrooms and baked beans laced with pork bits skip the pricey pie and cupcakes. Complete meals for $30 per person, including tax, tip and a pint. Average main $14. Open for brunch Sunday 10 am to 4 pm, dinner 5 to 11 pm. No reservations. Licensed. Access: barrier-free. Rating: NNN
Earth Bloor West
2448 Bloor W, at Jane, 416-763-2222, thinkglobaleatlocal.ca. If you’ve ever eaten at Globe Bistro or Globe Earth – now rebranded Earth Rosedale – you’ll know what to expect at the latest west-side outpost of this eco-minded mini-chain. The massive former sports bar’s menu, ambience and service (locavore, downtown chic and smooth respectively) are virtually identical to its siblings’. Whether sleepy Swansea is ready for it is another matter entirely. Best: to start, baskets of house-baked scones and croissants spread with house-made preserves the Chef’s Brekkie, a runny-egg-topped skillet of house-made baked beans studded with Tamworth suckling pig and boudin noir blood sausage the Swine & Dine – three eggs, six kinds of pork including double-smoked bacon, maple crackling and Quebecois creton and “lots of toast, no salad” eggy vanilla brioche French toast finished with Riesling-soaked Niagara cherries, candied walnuts and Devonshire cream free-range omelettes stuffed with whipped 100-mile Ingersoll Dairy ricotta ‘n’ chèvre. Complete brunches/lunches for $35 per person (dinners $65), including tax, tip and a cocktail. Average main $14/$22. Open for brunch Sunday 11 am to 3 pm. Reservations accepted. Licensed. Access: four steps at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN
Gusto 101
101 Portland, at Adelaide W, 416-504-9669, gusto101.com. Forget Grand Electric and Yours Truly. Downtown’s current resto du jour is this boisterous Italian trat in a converted chop shop within spitting distance of the Spoke Club. Don’t let the knobs and desperate singles put you off one of the best rooftop decks in town. But unless you book a table for either noon or 6 pm – the only times they take reservations – expect to wait in line. Best: to start, house-made ricotta with house-baked baguette wood-grilled octopus over haricots verts in a citrusy basil vinaigrette mined with tapenade massive main-sized arugula salads dressed with baby plum tomatoes, avocado and sliced rare steak classic summer spaghetti tossed with Manila clams at brunch, thin-crust pizzas topped with San Marzano sauce, local mozzarella, Pingue speck and a runny egg to finish, cioccolato pudding splashed with fruity olive oil and sea salt. Complete dinners for $40 per person (lunches/brunches $30), including tax, tip and a glass of house vino. Average main $18/$14. Open Sunday 11 am to close, brunch till 3 pm. Licensed. Access: barrier-free, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN
