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Food Food & Drink

Weekend eating: August 31-September 1

Saturday

Bar Isabel

797 College, at Shaw, 416-532-2222, barisabel.com, @barisabel797 Isabel? Bar Decibel, more like! Though ex-Black Hoof charcuterie king Grant van Gameren’s latest taverna looks like it stepped right out of the back streets of Barthelona, its acoustics recall the nearest bowling alley. A small price to pay for some of the most skilfully executed tapas around. Best: to start, devilled duck eggs dressed with shredded salt cod and morcilla blood sausage the mixed charcuterie platter – water-buffalo slinzega, pork jerky, hunter’s sausage and imported Iberico ham, say – with candied apple mostardo and warm sourdough sprinkled with sea salt southern-fried chicken over deep-fried eggplant drizzled in honey and chili flakes grilled hanger steak with blistered shishito peppers, grilled spring scallions in classic romesco sauce on the side to finish, salted chocolate mousse splashed with buttery olive oil. Complete dinners for $55 per person, including, tax, tip and a glass of cava. Average tapa $11. Open for dinner Saturday 6 pm to 2 am. Reservations accepted. Licensed. Access: barrier-free, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN

Hummingbird

1276 Queen E, at Alton, 647-748-3004, thehummingbird.ca, @hummingbirdTO Conveniently located directly across the street from the Leslieville Beer Store, Otis Creary’s island-inspired bistro cum take-away breathes new life into tradition-bound Caribbean cuisine. Best: to start, saltfish and ackee bruschetta on house-baked bammy flatbread aggressively spiced jerk chicken over local greens with sliced avocado, baby grape tomatoes and caramelized plantain croutons in thyme-scented balsamic vinaigrette outrageously delicate dal puri rotis stuffed with callaloo, chickpeas and pumpkin squash Friday and Saturday nights, jerk pork kebabs with sweet peppers and pineapple sided with grilled corn, roasted sweet potatoes or cornbread for dessert, blueberry Sno-Cones. Complete dinners for $25 (lunches $15), including tax, tip and a beer. Open for dinner Saturday 5 to 10 pm. Reservations accepted. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNNN

Kingyo

51B Winchester, at Parliament, 647-748-2121, kingyotoronto.ca This laid-back Cabbagetown izakaya proves you don’t need the full-bore frat-boy party vibe of Guu and the like to have a good time. Where else can you enjoy shareable plates that are as much fun for the tongue as they are for the eye while a kitschy Japanese sci-fi movie unspools over the bar? Best: rice-paper-wrapped salad rolls stuffed with barbecued cha shu pork, cucumber and lettuce splashed with house-made teriyaki sauce and sweet kewpie mayo tataki-style seared albacore tuna dressed with ponzu jelly and deep-fried garlic chips cold al dente ramen noodles tossed with salty cod roe, barbecued pork, bitter radicchio and strips of both seaweed and scrambled egg hamachi yellowtail carpaccio over organic mesclun, slivered red radish and daikon sprouts in a sesame-wasabi vinaigrette. Complete dinners for $40 per person, including tax, tip and a cocktail. Average main $11. Open for dinner Saturday 5:30 to 11:30 pm. Reservations recommended. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN

Sunday

Cardinal Rule

5 Roncesvalles, at Queen W, 647-352-0202, cardinalrulerestaurant.com One-time divey greasy spoon on the corner where Queen West meets Roncey, this slightly less divey diner offers an all-day card that’s not only often inventive but also available in gluten-free and vegan versions. Cool glam rock tunes on the jukebox, smiling servers and kid-friendly, too. Dress code: argyle. Best: the Wallop, the already hefty house burger dressed with leek ‘n’ potato latkes, Oka cheese, bacon and a runny fried egg the Breakfast Pie, a mutant quiche with a bacon (!) crust layered with latkes and cheesy veggie frittata to finish, chocolate caramel pie with a salty pretzel crust classic key lime pie to drink, pints of Beau’s all-natural microbrew. Complete brunches for $20, including tax, tip and a pint. Open for brunch Sunday 10 am to 4 pm. No reservations. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNN

Gautama

1416 Gerrard E, at Hiawatha, 416-469-4444, thesiddhartha.com Though the original was shuttered more than a year ago after a fire, Siddhartha rises from the ashes phoenix-like in fancier new digs a few blocks west. Not only is Sid’s all-you-can-eat buffet as exemplary as ever, but it can now be enjoyed al fresco on the only licensed patio in Little India. Best: from the buffet, crisply fried samosas stuffed with potato, peas and mild peppers saag paneer swirled with yogurt biryani-style rice with garden peas and curry leaves stir-fried cabbage with turmeric and mustard seeds mashed eggplant and potato with chilies aloo gobi with curried cauliflower ‘n’ spuds super-moist tandoori chicken legs and thighs while they last to finish, rice pudding, mango ice cream and fresh fruit to drink, lime sodas. Complete buffet dinners for $25 per person (lunches $20), including tax, tip and a domestic lager. Average la carte main $10. Open for $10.99 Sunday lunch buffet 11:30 am to 3:30 pm. Reservations accepted. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN

Lisa Marie

638 Queen W, at Palmerston, 647-748-6822, fidelgastro.ca, @fidelgastros Named for Elvis Presley’s only child and Michael Jackson’s only wife, pop-up promoter Matt Basile’s bricks ‘n’ mortar bistro switches gears at brunch, forgoing the shareable junk-food tapas-style plates he serves at supper for gargantuan mains that could easily feed a family of Fords. The only thing that could possibly follow: a nap. Best: stacks o’ Frisbee-sized flapjacks alternately layered with beefy pork patties, lettuce, tomato and cheese, a ramekin of maple syrup and a heap of home fries cooked in duck fat on the side deep-fried pizza dough topped with smoky pulled-pork chili and a de rigueur runny egg whole southern-fried Cornish hens over jalapeño cornbread muffins sided with super-spicy pad thai fries. Complete brunches for $35 per person, including tax, tip and a cocktail. Average main $15. Open for Sunday brunch 11 am to 3 pm. No reservations. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNNN

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