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Food Food & Drink

Weekend eating: June 25-26

Saturday

Amadeu’s

184 Augusta, at Denison Square, 416-591-1245. Like the futebol on the giant plasma TV, this charmingly off-kilter Kensington Market institution remains a restaurant of two halves: one a traditional coastal Portuguese seafood eatery with formal, family-friendly decor, the other a sometimes rowdy local complete with reasonably priced pints, top-notch Lisbon-style pub grub and a clientele that ranges from fishmongers to original Queen West legends (Keith Whittaker and Handsome Ned, RIP). Warning: those on a low-sodium diet should ask that their food be unsalted otherwise, a heavy, if authentic, hand often runs amok with the salt shaker. Best: to start, velvety caldo verde soup thick with kale, cranberry beans and potatoes paired with rough-crusted cornbread at lunch, daily seafood specials like spectacularly grilled whole sardines sided with collard greens and thickly cut Lisbon-style deep-fried potatoes at dinner, grilled codfish topped with sliced red onion, accompanied by steamed veg ‘n’ spuds ladled with lemony garlic olive oil pork alentejana, seared cubes of pork tenderloin mixed with fresh clams, peppers and potatoes to share, and in honour of 1974’s peaceful coup, the Amadeu’s Revolution, an upscale take on paella piled high with grilled lobster, crab, clams, mussels, shrimp and calamari mixed with rapini in garlicky lemon butter. Complete meals for $40 per person ($20 at lunch, $15 in the pub), including tax, tip and a glass of wine. Average main $12. Open for dinner Saturday 5 to 11 pm. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN

Barque

299 Roncesvalles, at Geoffrey, 416-532-7700, barque.ca. Instead of attempting to recreate southern U.S.-style barbecue this far north of the Mason-Dixon line, David Neinstein and Jeff Persofsky opt for a ‘cue unique to Toronto. A fancier-than-most storefront literally stripped back to its bare bones, engaging service and a large selection of local microbrews on tap mean the recently launched spot is slammed nearly every night. Kid-friendly, too. Reservations recommended. Best: at dinner, start with meaty slow-smoked chicken wings in sticky chipotle sauce impressively plated Caesars with candied bacon à la carte mains like dry-rubbed or sweetly sauced racks of baby back ribs Flintstonian beef ribs “competition” chicken thighs thickly sliced and slightly fatty beef brisket sides of smoked asparagus and house-pickled veggies for the wayward vegan, creamy coconut corn soup to finish, fried-to-order beignets with caramel sauce nutty pecan pie with Greg’s famous roasted marshmallow ice cream. Complete dinners for $40 per person (lunches/brunches $25), including tax, tip and a pint. Average main $16/$12. Open for dinner Saturday 5 pm to close. Reservations essential. Licensed. Access: barrier-free. Rating: NNN

Lahore Tikka House

1365 Gerrard E, at Highfield, 416-406-1668, lahoretikkahouse.com. After seven long years, the Taj Mahal of Little India is finally complete… well, almost. The rabbit warren of trailers where diners used to eat has been replaced by a chaotic open-air dining room furnished with picnic tables that spills onto a 200-seat patio tented in billowing sari fabric and lit by fairy lights. Best: slashed whole red snapper tikka, smoky from the charcoal-fuelled tandoor, skewered with lightly charred turmeric-tanged onion, potato and tomato aromatic minced lamb kebabs lemon-scented aloo gobi rich with waxy spuds and al dente cauliflower yellow lentils and pulverized spinach palak dahl vegetable biryani with chickpeas, crunchy cauliflower and carrot butter-brushed naan tossed with sesame seeds house-made almond kulfi ice cream squeezed-to-order sugar cane juice. Complete meals for $20 per person, including tax, tip and a glass of freshly squeezed sugar cane juice. Average main $9. Open for dinner Saturday 5 pm to 2 am. No reservations. Unlicensed. Access: barrier-free. Rating: NNN

Sunday

Black Metal Brunch @ Graffiti’s

170 Baldwin, at Kensington. Relocated from Planet Kensington, Linda Dawson’s (ex-Southern Accent, Bellair Café) punk rock spread comes with kick-ass sides of Florida death metal. Best: specials like mini-cheeseburgers on grilled garlic calabrese, topped with poached eggs and lemony hollandaise and sided with organic greens in a berry vinaigrette and fried sweet potato “homies.” Open for brunch Sunday 11 am to 5 pm. No reservations. Licensed. Access: one step at door, small washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNNNN

June Harlowe Foods

1627 Dupont, at Dundas W, 416-848-1984, juneharlowefoods.ca. This laid-back upper Junction Triangle café-slash-catering-outfit might be a bit out of the way for most, but for those who live in this brunch-starved nabe it’s a godsend. Best: grilled peameal bacon eggs Benny in light, lemony hollandaise sided with both fruit and Caesar salads the Country Cottage breakfast, two fried or scrambled eggs paired with fried tomatoes, peppery home fries and multigrain toast house burgers dressed with Brie and avocado and sided with freshly cut fries. Complete brunches for $20, including tax, tip and a domestic beer. Average main $11. Open for brunch Sunday 11 am to 3 pm. No reservations. Licensed. Rating: NNN

One

116 Yorkville, at Hazelton, 416-961-9600, onehazelton.com. You expect perfection from Mark McEwan. The Food TV star and notoriously meticulous powerhouse behind Pronto, North 44 and Bymark brings his unparalleled polish to the all-day dining room of Yorkville’s Hazelton Hotel. Of course, you pay through the nose for the privilege ($28 cheeseburger, anyone?), but the experience is almost worth it, if just for the unabashed professionalism of the personable servers. Bonus: the wraparound patio out front has been celebutante central since it opened with considerable fanfare during last fall’s Film Fest. Best: at brunch and breakfast, eggs Benedict, toasted brioche layered with artisanal ham, perfectly poached eggs and lemony light hollandaise, sided with sautéed new potatoes and grilled cherry tomatoes at brunch and lunch, an unorthodox Cobb salad of crisp romaine, grilled chicken breast, crumbled blue Quebec cheese, brioche croutons, hard-boiled quail egg and purple Thai basil sprouts at lunch and dinner, the Ultimate Street Burger dressed with heirloom tomato, back bacon and aged cheddar on the side, frites showered with shaved truffle and Reggiano. Complete brunches for $40 per person, including tax, tip and the cheapest glass of wine. Average main $16. Open for brunch Sunday 10 am to 4:30 pm. Reservations accepted. Licensed. Access: barrier-free. Rating: NNN

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