Saturday
Elle M’a Dit
35 Baldwin, at Henry, 416-546-3448, ellemadit.com. Though the often heavy Alsation carte at chef Gregory Furstoss and partner Tory Yang’s très charmant Baldwin Village bistro might not be the best choice for a balmy August eve, come winter it fits the bill like a pair of fleece-lined Gortex gloves. Thoroughly professional service and a genuinely warm welcome only make it more so. Best: to start, delicate tarte flambée dressed with hickory-smoked trout, creamy fromage blanc, tangy green olives and fresh dill on a flaky flatbread crust so thin it’s almost gluten-free shareable mains like classic coq au vin paired with spaetzle laced with roasted onion, mushrooms and crunchy slivers of celery velvety foie gras over gingerbread French toast in a sweet veal reduction Baeckeoffe, an Alsatian shepherd’s pie topped with potatoes and thick with slow-braised shredded short ribs, lamb shank and fatty pork belly sided with organic mesclun in cranberry vinaigrette to finish, another tarte flambée dressed with cinnamon-dusted apple. Complete dinners for $50 per person (lunches $30), including tax tip and a glass of wine. Average main $20/$13. Open for dinner Saturday 5:30 to 11 pm. Licensed. Access: two steps at door, washrooms upstairs. Rating: NNNN
Marcello’s
1163 St Clair W, at Dufferin, 416-656-6159, marcellospizzeria.com. Though it’s rarely mentioned in the endless Terroni vs Libretto pizza debate, this family-run family-style trat bakes a thin-crusted pie their equal. Substantial salads, no-nonsense grills and customizable pastas mean full houses from noon till late. Takeout, but no delivery. Best: from the wood-burning pizza oven, the Compagniola, a 12-inch thinly crusted pie layered with spicy sausage, grilled eggplant, roasted red peppers, mozzarella and tomato sauce French-cut veal chops in green peppercorn ‘n’ marsala sauce to start, rich chicken-broth-based Stracciatella Fiorentina soup swirled with tomato and spinach mixed greens tossed with peppers, artichoke and shaved Asiago in balsamic vinaigrette. Complete meals for $40 per person (lunches $30), including tax, tip and a glass of vino. Average main $15. Open for dinner Saturday 5 to 11 pm. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN
Pizzeria Via Mercanti
188 Augusta, at Denison Sq, 647-343-6647. Queen Margherita Pizza vets Romolo Salvati and Massimo Di Lascio bring true Neapolitan pies to Kensington Market. Though not certified by the VNP, everything else about this breezy skylit space is the real deal, from the wood-burning ovens to the thinly crusted ‘za. Best: to start, bocconcini di pizza, miniature pizza rolls stuffed with prosciutto or fresh fior di latte cheese that sell for a buck a pop sautéed garlicky rapini and crumbled with house-made sausage sided with warm focaccia lightly charred and chewy 11-inch pies like the eponymous double pizza, a white pizza dressed with buffalo ricotta, salami and ‘shrooms topped with a Margherita in San Marzano tomato sauce with fresh basil vegetarian eggplant parmigiano to finish, rustic tiramisu. Complete dinners for $25 per person (lunches $20), including all tax, tip and a glass of vino. Average main $13/$10. Open for dinner Saturday 5 to 11 pm. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN
Sunday
Gayley’s
1424 Dundas W, at Gladstone, 416-538-3443. This brick-lined casual café fitted out with moulded plywood Eames-style chairs, a few pews and bare tables is a west-side secret. Rarely too crowded, the relaxed room always has stacks of newspapers to read, and its competent kitchen whips up a respectable all-day breakfast for only $6.95. Bonus: kid-friendly. Warning: kid-friendly. Best: blueberry or chocolate pancakes sided with fresh fruit or bacon fruit crepes with whipped cream from the kiddie card, Pigs in Blankets and mini-pancakes. Complete breakfasts/brunches for $10 per person, including tax, tip and a coffee. Average main $6. Open Sunday 7 am to 4 pm. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNN
Gilead Café & Bistro
4 Gilead Pl, at King E, 647-288-0680, jamiekennedy.ca. Organic guru Jamie Kennedy regroups at this low-key Corktown beanery. Has the groundbreaking chef ever been so on track? Best: baskets of house-baked pastries – flaky croissants, savoury scones, buttery brioche – spread with crème fraîche and strawberry jam smoked Ontario whitefish over Red Fife pancakes, with pickled red onion and sour cream over organic greens chef’s flawless frites with fried eggs, artisanal sausage and Indo ketchup bacon-laced rosti topped with super-cheesy scrambled eggs to drink, house-distilled agua fresca. Complete brunches for $30 per person, including tax, tip and a glass of locally bottled spring water. Average main $12. Open for brunch Sunday 10 am to 3 pm. No reservations. Licensed. Access: three steps at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNNNN
Globe Bistro
124 Danforth, at Broadview, 416-466-2000, thinkglobaleatlocal.ca. The former art deco Café Brussels becomes the avenue’s swankest supper club. Executive chef Kevin McKenna presents a cosmopolitan card that emphasizes provenance as well as presentation. Best: to start, house-baked blueberry scones spread with clotted cream entrees like the Chef’s Brekkie, a runny-egg-topped skillet of house-made baked beans studded with Tamworth suckling pig and boudin noir blood sausage the Swine & Dine – three eggs, six kinds of pork including double-smoked bacon, maple crackling and Quebecois creton and “lots of toast, no salad” eggy vanilla brioche French toast finished with Riesling-soaked Niagara cherries, candied walnuts and Devonshire cream free-range omelettes stuffed with whipped 100-mile Ingersoll Dairy ricotta ‘n’ chèvre to drink, half-price bottles of wine. Complete brunches for $35 per person, including tax, tip and a glass of Ontario wine. Average main $14/$20/$35. Open for brunch Sunday 11 am to 2 pm. Licensed. Access: barrier-free. Rating: NNN
