Saturday
Diverso by Ferraro
328 Dupont, at Spadina, 416-929-3388, diversobyferraro.com. Sister of Eglinton West’s Ferraro 502, this mid-range Annex trat checks all the boxes: cozy subterranean grotto (whitewashed walls, slate floors, a cappuccino bar upfront), welcoming servers who make you feel just like family, and an exceptionally competent kitchen. Great pizza, too! Also: 502 Eglinton W, at Warren, 416-488-7729. Best: from the chalkboard specials, start with grilled à point calamari in lemony caper sauce over organic greens dressed with house-made balsamic vinegar generously portioned pasta di giorno, fettuccine tossed with pesto, snap peas and a six-pack of butterflied shrimp secondi like capon breast overstuffed with wild rice, sun-dried tomato and goat cheese in rosemary cream over mashed potatoes, or veal chops in a red wine reduction with very good frites, both sided with roasted parsnip and carrot thin-crusted pizzas dressed à la canadese with mozzarella, pepperoni and green pepper to finish, definitive tiramisu. Complete dinners for $40 per person, including tax, tip and a glass of vino. Average main $17. Open for dinner Saturday 5 to 11 pm. Reservations recommended. Licensed. Access: four steps at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNN
Pizzeria Defina
321 Roncesvalles, at Grenadier, 416-534-4414, pizzeriadefina.com. No one has yet posed a threat to Libretto, but this stylish family-friendly west-end bistro comes close, from better-than-they-should-be starters to perfectly blistered thin-crusted pies in two styles: Neapolitan with a raised edge and completely flat Roman pies. Servers are sweet, if run off their feet. Best: shareable apps like Caesar salad in a grilled garlic vinaigrette kissed with the slightest suggestion of anchovies house-made papardelle in sweet, meaty Bolognese scented with fresh basil chiffonade and shaved parmigiano the Red Hot Chili Pepper pizza dressed with house San Marzano tomato sauce, creamy fior di latte, chorizo, salami and jalapeños cheesy lasagna pizzas, the only thing missing the pasta the pierogi-inspired Roncey topped with thinly sliced potatoes, Asiago, pancetta and guanciale. Complete dinners for $40 per person (lunches $30), including tax, tip and a glass of wine. Average main $15. Open for dinner Saturday 5 to 11 pm. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN
Pizzeria Via Mercanti
188 Augusta, at Denison Sq, 647-343-6647. Queen Margherita Pizza vets Romolo Salvati and Massimo Di Lascio bring true Neapolitan pies to Kensington in the former Back Alley Grill. Though not certified by the VNP, everything else about this breezy skylit space is the real deal, from the wood-burning ovens to the thinly crusted ‘za. Best: to start, bocconcini di pizza, miniature pizza rolls stuffed with prosciutto or fresh fior di latte cheese that sell for a buck a pop sautéed garlicky rapini and crumbled house-made sausage sided with warm focaccia, a veritable DIY pizza lightly charred and chewy 11-inch pies topped with the likes of slivered soppressata (the Traditrice) or the eponymous double pizza, a white pizza dressed with buffalo ricotta, salami and ‘shrooms topped with a full Margherita in San Marzano tomato sauce with fresh basil vegetarian eggplant parmigiano to finish, rustic tiramisu. Complete dinners for $25 per person (lunches $20), including all tax, tip and a glass of vino. Average main $13/$10. Open for dinner Saturday 5 to 11 pm. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN
Sunday
Le Canard Mort
896 Queen E, at Logan, 416-625-2653, lecanardmort.ca. Sister to Riverside’s late Le Rossignol, this Leslieville gastro-pub-slash-bistro has been a hit from the get-go. Blame an accessible French-ish card, attentive servers and a kid-friendly room. Take that, Joy Bistro and Lady Marmalade! Best: toasted St Urbain bagels spread with Leslieville Cheese Market’s cream cheese topped with Kristapson’s smoked salmon corned beef hash finished with two poached eggs and a side of multigrain toast from the bakery down the street Benny Canard with duck confit and classic Hollandaise over English muffins. Open Sunday 10 am to 3 pm. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNN
Luma
350 King W, at John, 647-288-4715, oliverbonacini.com. Located in the Lightbox cinema complex, O&B’s latest mixes upscale, anodyne design, top-notch service and former Auberge de Pommier chef Jason Bangerter’s often playful plates to great effect, especially when sampled on the panoramic patio. Reservations recommended. Best: massive Croque Madame sandwiches on “artisan” sourdough piled with smoked ham and Gruyère, finished with a tasty Mornay sauce and a runny sunny-side-up egg spaghetti carbonara tossed with double-smoked bacon, freshly grated Parmesan, loads of ground pepper and a yolky egg barely scrambled eggs with house-smoked salmon, sour cream and chives to finish, fried-to-order beignets filled with pastry cream and finished with caramelized banana, whipped cream, melted chocolate, crème anglaise and dry-toasted pecans. Complete brunches for $40 per person, including tax, tip and a Stompin’ Tom Collins. Average main $15. Open for brunch Sunday 11 am to 3 pm. Licensed. Access: barrier-free. Rating: NNNN
Wish
3 Charles E, at Yonge, 416-935-0240, wishintoronto.com. Cousin to nearby 7 West, Renda Abdo’s whitewashed South Beach-style resto-lounge returns to its original mandate. Better yet, she’s overhauled the kitchen and lowered prices, too. Best: to start, grilled grapefruit with raw sugar mains like eggs Charlotte, a pair of expertly poached eggs in Parmesan and leek fondue over smoked salmon on whole wheat Ace Bakery muffins, sided with organic greens in red wine vinaigrette grilled Nutella sandwiches to finish, Callebaut chocolate brownies straight from the oven dolloped with real whipped cream. Complete brunches for $30 per person, including all tax, tip and a cocktail. Average main $14. Open for brunch Sunday 10 am to 4 pm. Reservations accepted. Licensed. Access: barrier-free. Rating: NNN
