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Food Food & Drink

Weekend eating: May 25-26

Saturday

Bar Isabel

797 College, at Shaw, 416-532-2222, barisabel.com, @barisabel797 Isabel? Bar Decibel, more like! Though ex-Black Hoof charcuterie king Grant van Gameren’s latest taverna looks like it stepped right out of the back streets of Barthelona, its acoustics recall the nearest bowling alley. A small price to pay for some of the most skilfully executed tapas around. Best: to start, devilled duck eggs dressed with shredded salt cod and morcilla blood sausage the mixed charcuterie platter – water-buffalo slinzega, pork jerky, hunter’s sausage and imported Iberico ham, say – with candied apple mostardo and warm sourdough sprinkled with sea salt southern-fried chicken over deep-fried eggplant drizzled in honey and chili flakes grilled hanger steak with blistered shishito peppers, grilled spring scallions in classic Romesco sauce on the side to finish, salted chocolate mousse splashed with buttery olive oil. Complete dinners for $55 per person, including, tax, tip and a glass of cava. Average tapa $11. Open for dinner Saturday 6 pm to 2 am. Licensed. Access: barrier-free, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN

Hawthorne Food & Drink

60 Richmond E, at Church, 647-930-9517, @hawthorneto Based on the sheer professionalism on display at this smart 40-seat bistro, you’d never guess that half its staff are interns taking part in a joint labour-management partnership between the hospitality workers’ union and local unionized hotels. Chef Binh an Nguyen’s carte impresses with its polish, a mix of French technique and global ingredients. Music too loud? Ask and they’ll turn it down! Best: to start, deep-fried paella “bombs” dressed with steamed mussels, clams and chorizo in garlicky tomato sauce honey-glazed quail dusted in za’atar mains like “perfect” sous-vide hanger steak with spicy ketchup and chunky Kennebec frites house-made papardelle with wilted kale, charred fennel, toasted pecans and raisins at lunch, hefty lobster knuckle sandwiches with house-pickled pear to finish, Earl Grey crème brûlée and beignet. Complete dinners for $45 per person (lunches $30), including tax, tip and a glass of wine. Average main $22/$13. Open for dinner Saturday 5 to 11 pm. Licensed. Access: barrier-free. Rating: NNNN

Siddhartha Pure Vegetarian

1471 Gerrard East, at Rhodes, 416-463-9777 Sister to Gautama down the block, this Subcontinental all-you-can-eat buffet is one of the tastiest in Little India. And the only one that doesn’t feature butter chicken. Likeable servers steer first-timers to the good stuff. Best: from the buffet, deep-fried veggie pakoras and samosas veggie szubji like saag paneer swirled with yogurt stir-fried cabbage with mustard seeds spicy eggplant with potatoes and green chilies paneer in sweet red tomato sauce à la butter chicken sweet ‘n’ sour Manchurian-style meatless kofta meatballs from the à la carte menu, fried lentil idly with fiery Sri Lankan-style sambar the tandoori platter with smoky paneer, cauliflower and tofu on a bed of raw cabbage and red onion. Complete dinners for $25 per person (lunches $20), including tax, tip and a lime soda. Average la carte $10. Open for $13.99 dinner buffet Saturday 4 to 10:30 pm. Unlicensed. Access: two steps at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN

Sunday

Grand Electric

1330 Queen W, at Elm Grove, 416-627-3459, grandelectricbar.com Now that ex-Black Hoof chef Colin Tooke’s super-hot Parkdale taqueria has more than doubled in size with the addition of a 40-seat patio, scoring a no-reserve table should be twice as easy. Wrong! But show up at 6, get on the list and come back in an hour or so – no problemo. Friendly and efficient servers ensure the feeding frenzy never wanes. Best: vibrantly spiced soft-shell tacos stuffed with sweet pulled pork belly topped with grilled pineapple salsa shredded chicken kicked with árbol pepper and pickled red onion deliciously braised beef cheeks dressed with buttery avocado and hellaciously hot jalapeños fried slices of mild queso over roasted poblano peppers Baja-style fish tacos with crisply deep-fried tilapia finished with radish and red onion lashed with crema and lime shareable plates like chunky tuna ceviche piled high tostada-style on deep-fried tortillas remarkably tender rings of deep-fried calamari drenched in a Sriracha-like hot sauce Chicken Frito, a heap of marvellously messy deep-fried chicken parts doused in a five-alarm sauce thick with fresh coriander, brown sugar, chili pods and funky nam pla to finish, Mason jars of key lime pudding. Complete meals for $40 per person, including tax, tip and a cocktail. Average main $10. Open for lunch Sunday 11:30 am to 4 pm. No reservations. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNNN

Red Fish

890 College, at Delaware, 416-733-3474, redfishresto.com, @redfishresto Fishbar vets David Friedman and Jamie Duran’s cozy west-side bistro offers a civilized alternative to our too-often frenzied weekend ritual. Why, they even take reservations! Best: to start, $5 Caesars and mimosas followed by flaky house-baked scones spread with tart rhubarb and sweet plum preserves gluten-free mains like sustainable Ocean Wise rainbow trout tartare with peppery arugula and crispy fish skin replacing traditional toast points seared confit duck wings glazed in apple butter over eggy waffles terrific octopus hash paired with poached runny eggs in textbook hollandaise banana bread French toast with peanut butter mousse and maple syrup on the side, local pickerel fish cakes house-made breakfast sausage. Complete brunches for $30 per person, including tax, tip and a budget-priced cocktail. Average main $12. Open for brunch Sunday 11 am to 3 pm. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN

Tavoos

1120 College, at Dufferin, 647-352-7322, tavoos.ca The Pomegranate and Sherzade’s Daniele Schrage and Ali Fashrashrafi bring Persian sophistication to one of the last ungentrified corners on the west side. An unusual menu, helpful service and massive portions lead to repeat visits. Forget dessert. The only thing you’ll need after dinner is a nap! Best: to start, Zeitoon Parvardeh, a vegetarian caviar-like spread thick with crushed walnuts, pomegranate paste and tangy green olives mains like Dizi Sangi, a humongous stew of lamb shank and chickpeas served two ways, first as strained broth then mashed on toasted barberry bread along with creamy yogurt, scallion and pickled eggplant Kolleh Pocheh, a curried soup strewn with sundry sheeps’ heads, hooves and tongues finished with pickled garlic, raw red onion and fresh lemon to drink, strong Turkish coffee. Complete lunches/brunches for $20 per person, including tax, tip and a steaming glass of chai. Average main $10. Open for brunch Sunday 10 am to 4 pm. Licensed. Access: barrier-free, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN

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