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Food Food & Drink

Weekend eating: May 28-29

Saturday

Cardinal Rule

5 Roncesvalles, at Queen W, 647-352-0202, cardinalrulerestaurant.com. One-time divey greasy spoon on the corner where Queen West meets Roncey, this slightly less divey diner offers an all-day card that’s not only often inventive but also available in gluten-free and vegan versions. Cool glam rock tunes on the jukebox, smiling servers and kid-friendly, too. Dress code: argyle. Best: to start, Macaroni Maki, deep-fried sushi-like cylinders of Kraft Dinner with better cheddar and jalapeño or sausage, ketchup on the side meatball muffins with hickory barbecue sauce on flaky canape-style phyllo pastry Grace Meats’ teriyaki pork burgers with crunchy Asian slaw Noodle Bowls of grilled baby bok choy, tofu and sweet peppers over sesame-scented buckwheat udon pulled pork slow-braised in rum ‘n’ Coca-Cola in pressed panini at brunch, the Wallop, the already hefty house burger dressed with leek ‘n’ potato latkes, Oka cheese, bacon and a runny fried egg the Breakfast Pie, a mutant quiche with a bacon (!) crust layered with latkes and cheesy veggie frittata to finish, chocolate caramel pie with a salty pretzel crust classic Key lime pie to drink, pints of Beau’s all-natural microbrew. Complete dinners for $25 per person (lunches/brunches $20) including tax, tip and a pint of preservative-free lager. Average main $9. Open for dinner Saturday 5 pm to close. No reservations. Licensed. Cash only. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN

Gerrard Spaghetti & Pizza

1528 Danforth, at Rhodes, 416-463-7792. Sure, laugh at this family-run 41-year-old pizza ‘n’ pasta parlour’s 70s decor – net curtains, maps on the wall, TV over the bar – but there’s nothing funny about its excellent pies. One of Toronto’s oldest pizzerias, it was originally located on Gerrard – hence the handle. And, no, they don’t deliver. Best: the skinny-crusted Ricardo with roasted sweet red pepper, lightly brushed tomato sauce, quartered button mushrooms, sun-dried tomato, mozzarella, crumbled blue cheese and fresh basil the Nancy with nutty basil pesto, mild chèvre, fior di latte, and sliced Yukon Gold potato to take home, explosive bottled home-grown hot peppers in garlicky olive oil. Complete dinners for $35 per person, including tax, tip and a glass of wine. Average main $12. Open for dinner Saturday 4 pm to midnight. Licensed. Access: barrier-free, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN

Live Organic Food Bar

264 Dupont, at Spadina, 416-515-2002, livefoodbar.com. Since launching her microscopic take-away next door just five years ago, owner/chef Jennifer Italiano has established herself as the diva of the local raw food scene. Now ensconced in far larger and much more stylish digs – complete with backyard patio – Italiano offers an always inventive card that’s not only ridiculously eco-conscious, it’s darned tasty to boot. Wash it all down with one of eight locally sourced and organic micro-brews or organic hemp sake. Best: Live It Up Lasagna, raw zucchini ribbons dressed with basil pesto, garden veggies, cashew ricotta cheese, sun-dried tomato and kalamata olives in marinara sauce sprouted-buckwheat crust pizza with sunflower-seed cheese, corn, red onion, spinach, tomato and fresh basil at brunch, gluten-free pumpkin/buckwheat pancakes with seasonal fruit. Complete dinners for $45 per person (lunches/brunches $25), including tax, tip and an organic beer. Average main $14/$10. Open for dinner Saturday 5 to 10 pm. No reservations. Licensed. Access: 11 steps at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNNN

Sunday

Live Bluegrass Brunch @ The Dakota Tavern

249 Ossington, at Dundas W, 416-850-4579, thedakotatavern.com. This west-side basement saloon may be better known as a rootsy live music venue, but every Sunday morning it’s home to one of the rockin’-est brunches in town. For $14 (kids in Ramones T-shirts $7), the happening honky-tonk dishes up substantial all-you-can-eat platters at communal tables against a backdrop of live bluegrass. Best: to start, orange and grapefruit juices good coffee-shop joe obligatory fruit salad perfectly fluffy scrambled eggs unusually meaty bacon crisply griddled home fries unlimited stacks o’ flapjacks with maple syrup. Open Sunday 11 am to 3 pm. No reservations. Licensed. Access: 15 steps at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNN

Lola’s Commissary

634 Church, at Hayden, 416-966-3991, lolascommissary.com. Although it changed hands last fall, little else about this rambling Victorian has changed. The same CD of non-stop 80s hits is still stuck in the sound system, servers are as easy-going as ever, and the all-day breakfast card remains virtually the same. Best: to start, creamy butternut squash soup follow with over-the-top eggy challah French toast stuffed with orange and vanilla cheesecake (!) finished with crushed apple pie, maple syrup and a dusting of confectioner’s sugar Eggs Lola, Tex Mex-style runny poached eggs over shredded ancho chicken and soft tortillas dressed with Mexican sheep’s milk crème fraîche, sliced ripe avocado and Italian tomato-basil fresca, sided with “sexy” roasted sweet potatoes. Complete brunches for $22, including tax, tip and a hair-of-the-dog beer. Open for brunch Sunday 10 am to 3 pm. Reservations accepted. Licensed. Access: five steps at door, washrooms on second floor. Rating: NNN

Melanie’s

1870 Danforth, at Albright, 416-422-1870, melaniesbistro.ca. Full houses every Saturday and Sunday morning attest that there’s nothing like this pleasant kid-friendly storefront café for miles. Shame the cruise-ship/hotel-buffet-quality grub – anchovy-free Caesar salads, wimpy salsas, frozen French fries – doesn’t match the welcoming and attentive service. Best: pan-fried Newfie-style potato ‘n’ cod cakes paired with poached eggs in dilled hollandaise, scoops of grilled home fries, fruit salad and multigrain toast sweet potato frites candied pecan- and cornflake-crusted French toast with caramelized peaches and crème anglaise to finish house-baked cheesecake. Complete brunches for $25 per person, including tax, tip and a glass of wine. Average main $12. Open for brunch Sunday 10 am to 3 pm. Licensed. Access: barrier-free. Rating: NNN

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