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Food Food & Drink

Weekend eating: October 1-2

Saturday

Butter Chicken Factory

556 Parliament, at Prospect, 416-964-7583. No longer Timothy’s Tikka House, this spinoff of Saffron Tree and post-Debu Saha Biryani House specializes in just one thing – super-tender slow-cooked chicken in a rich tomato cream. Other north-Indian-style mains show just as much expertise, while service and decor are also several steps above the norm. Delivery in the immediate area, too! Best: butter chicken three ways, including boneless breast or dark meat on the bone in mildly numbing tomato sauce punched with spice instead of whipping cream, sided, like all mains, with basmati rice dressed with caramelized onion and saffron oil starters like the Sizzler, smoky tandoori chicken in yogurt marinade, skewered lamb kabobs, shell-on jumbo shrimp and blocks of char-blistered paneer melt-on-the-fork aloo gobhi adraki, aka potato cauliflower casserole explosive lamb vindaloo in nutty gravy to sop, garlic naan. Complete dinners for $30 per person (lunches $20), including tax, tip and an Indian lager. Average main $13/$10. Open for dinner Saturday 5 to 10:30 pm. Licensed. Access: barrier-free, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNN

Hardy’s

992 St Clair W, at Oakwood, 416-901-4100, hardyshogtown.com. This family-friendly barbecue joint may not reach the lofty heights of nearby Stockyards, but – unlike its ‘cue competition – Hardy’s dishes up house-smoked ribs and chicken every night. Best: the slider platter, three mini-burgers piled with smoked free-range chicken breast in tangy sweet ‘n’ sour sauce, pulled pork in honey Dijon, and fat-free brisket with creamy purple cabbage coleslaw half-chickens in sticky whiskey glaze racks of meaty side ribs marinated in soda pop sides of collard greens sautéed in honey at weekday lunch, the house burger with any side and a half-pint of draught goes for $10 to finish, bourbon butterscotch bread pudding with whipped cream. Complete dinners for $30 (lunches $15/brunches $22), including tax, tip and a domestic beer. Average main $15/$10. Open for dinner Saturday 5 to 10 pm. Reservations recommended. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN

Torito

276 Augusta, at College, 416-961-7373, toritorestaurant.com. With owners whose CVs include respected names like Latitude and Xango, is it any wonder that this informal Kensington Market tapas bar is packed to the rafters every night? An intoxicating Iberian card of truly shareable plates, mood lighting and engaging servers add up to one of downtown’s most romantic evenings. Best: merguez sausage over wild mushrooms ‘n’ lentils chewy Chilean tripe stew with chickpeas and Manchego cheese smoked trout over new potatoes daubed with creamy avocado mayo beef tongue ‘n’ cheeks slow-braised in cookbook-correct mirepoix pomegranate-glazed quail over sweet calabaza pumpkin mash grilled shrimp al ajillo drenched in butter and garlic to finish, fresh figs drizzled in honey with blue Benedictin cheese to drink, glasses of Jerez (hair-eth), a sherry-like fortified Spanish wine that varies from muy dry to cough-syrup sweet. Complete dinners for $50 per person, including tax, tip and a glass of wine. Average tapa $10. Open for dinner Saturday 5 to 11 pm, bar till close. No reservations. Licensed. Access: five steps at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNNN

Sunday

Frida

999 Eglinton W, at Glen Cedar, 416-787-2221, fridarestaurant.ca. taking its inspiration from Mexican artist Frida Kahlo, this decidedly modish cantina – red velvet banquettes, bare black laquered tables, cool halogen light fixtures overhead – is not only sombrero-free, but Jose Hadad’s upscale card eschews all Tex-Mex clichés as well. Best: the honourary Frida Y Diego omelette stuffed with red and green peppers and sauced with both salsa verde and salsa roja, sided with refried black beans and crumbled queso fresca shredded chicken breast in spicy pibil sauce wrapped in soft tacos topped with pickled red onion. Complete brunches for $25 per person, including tax, tip and a coffee. Average main $12. Open Sunday 10:30 am to 2 pm. Reservations accepted. Licensed. Access: barrier-free, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN

Naco Gallery Cafe

1665 Dundas W, at Margueretta, 647-347-6499, nacogallery.com. Though it doesn’t serve food the rest of the week, come Saturday and Sunday this Latin-accented coffeehouse slash alterna-queer music venue offers one of the best brunches on the west side. Better not be in a hurry, since chef Nathan Gawalko – formerly of Atlantic and La Palette – cooks everything on a two-burner hot plate. Best: the house torta, a gargantuan breakfast sandwich stacked with slow-roasted pork belly, crackling, avocado, coleslaw and a runny egg grilled asparagus in mole sauce over fresh tortillas dressed with vegan refried beans, oyster mushrooms, pickled red onion, raw radish, jalapeño and yogurt drizzle beef brisket enchiladas stuffed with chipotle-braised beef brisket in smoky grilled tomato and guajillo pepper sauce. Complete brunches for $18 per person, including tax, tip and a coffee. Average main $10. Open for brunch Saturday and Sunday 10 am to 4 pm. Coffee weekdays from 9 am, bar nightly till close. No reservations. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN

Pearl Court

633 Gerrard E, at Broadview, 416-463-8778. This busy east-side eatery calls itself the best Chinese restaurant in Toronto and has a wall plastered with rave reviews from the 80s to prove it. It may have been true back then, but today it’s a solid mid-tier Cantonese cantina with a second, more intriguing Southeast Asian-influenced menu. Best: from the latter, house Special Noodle, Swatow-style wide rice noodles slippery with sesame oil, strewn with sweet red pepper strips and zucchini, garnished with raw bean sprouts Spicy Vietnamese Beef, large pieces of pounded steak paired with carrot threads, bell pepper and button mushrooms, kicked with Thai basil and dried red chili in sweet, gloopy gravy be warned that Paper Wrapped Chicken is not a plateful of egg rolls but eight parchment-encased bundles of juicy deboned thigh in five-spice with coriander leaf, so just eat the contents deep-fried spring rolls stuffed with finely ground pork deep-fried soft shell crab (“as seen on Citytv!”). Complete meals for $30 per person ($15 at lunch), including tax, tip and a domestic beer. Average main $10/$7. Open for dim sum Sunday 8 am to 4 pm. Licensed. Access: barrier-free, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN

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