Saturday
La Carnita
501 College, at Palmerston, 416-964-1555, lacarnita.com. If imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, Grand Electric in Parkdale must be particularly chuffed. So what if both taquerias appropriated the formula – trendy tacos, hard liquor and harder tunes – from Big Star Tacos in Chicago? Smooth service and the lack of a lineup most nights make the somewhat higher prices that much easier to stomach. Best: owner chef Andrew Richmond’s signature In Cod We Trust fish taco of battered wild Atlantic cod, pickled red cabbage and tart Granny Smith apple lashed with lime, crema fresca, spicy tahini-like Voltron sauce Pollo Frito with southern-style fried chicken in peanut mole sauce dressed with pickled napa cabbage and tomato salsa deep-fried avocado with black beans and peppery chipotle sauce house-made chorizo with pickled red onion and sharp cojita cheese, all on fresh La Tortilleria tortillas tongue tostadas topped with grilled pineapple and beet sprouts in hot sauce halved avocados stuffed with ripe mango, toasted pumpkin seeds and Hostess Hickory Sticks fashioned from deep-fried plantain tortilla chips dusted with powdered ancho chili sided with chipotle-spiked chicken liver pâté charred corn on the cob slathered in yogurty crema fresca and anejo cheese paletas – Mexican popsicles – in flavours like key lime pie coated with crushed graham crackers, and salted dulce de leche with crushed chicharrón. Complete meals for $40 per person, including tax, tip and a pint of micro-suds. Average taco $5. Open Saturday 5 to 11 pm. No reservations. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN
Elle M’a Dit
35 Baldwin, at Henry, 416-546-3448, ellemadit.com. Though the often heavy Alsation carte at chef Gregory Furstoss and partner Tory Yang’s très charmant Baldwin Village bistro might not be the best choice for a balmy August eve, come winter it fits the bill like a pair of fleece-lined Gortex gloves. Thoroughly professional service and a genuinely warm welcome only make it more so. Best: to start, delicate tarte flambée dressed with hickory-smoked trout, creamy fromage blanc, tangy green olives and fresh dill on a flaky flatbread crust so thin it’s almost gluten-free shareable mains like classic coq au vin paired with spaetzle laced with roasted onion, mushrooms and crunchy slivers of celery velvety foie gras over gingerbread French toast in a sweet veal reduction Baeckeoffe, an Alsatian shepherd’s pie topped with potatoes and thick with slow-braised shredded short ribs, lamb shank and fatty pork belly sided with organic mesclun in cranberry vinaigrette to finish, another tarte flambée dressed with cinnamon-dusted apple. Complete dinners for $50 per person (lunches $30), including tax tip and a glass of wine. Average main $20/$13. Open for dinner Saturday 5:30 to 10 pm. Licensed. Access: two steps at door, washrooms upstairs. Rating: NNNN
Zorba’s
681 Danforth, at Pape, 416-406-1212. It’s certainly not the fanciest joint on the Boulevard of Broken Plates, but this old-school taverna decked out in naïf murals has something almost none of its neighbours still serve: home-style Greek grub. Just like in the old days, ignore the printed menu and point at what you fancy from the steam table. Sheep skull stuffed with offal, anyone? Best: the house cold platter with lemony baby octopus, hummus, eggplant melitzana salata, tzatziki and whipped carp roe taramosalata thick ‘n’ meaty grilled lamb ribs sided with baked gigantes lima beans and waxy oven-roasted potatoes lasagna-like pastitsio, tubular penne over ground lamb topped with eggy béchamel-sauced mashed spuds arni frickase, slow-braised lamb shank with artichoke hearts in dilled avgolemono lemon sauce traditional feta-strewn Greek village salad super-moist 2-pound takeout chickens. Complete meals for $25 per person, including tax, tip and a domestic beer. Average main $12. Open for dinner Saturday 5 pm to 5 am. Licensed. Access: short step at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNN
Sunday
Banh Mi Boys
392 Queen W, at Spadina, 416-363-0588, banhmiboys.com. After a short run last December, the Boys return with a much slicker operation than the original slapdash pop-up. Expanded seating and a much-improved takeout corner ensure that lines move even faster than before. New on the menu: kimchee fries, duck confit subs, beef cheek steamed bao and squid tacos! Best: Korean tacos – grilled Indian paratha flatbread stuffed with the likes of spicy bulgogi beef, lemongrass chicken thigh or pulled sesame pork dressed with pickled carrot ‘n’ daikon, diced jalapeños, English cucumber, fresh coriander, kimchee, house-made hoisin and Sriracha Saigon-style subs stuffed with veal meatballs in tomato sauce or grilled pork belly in five-spice steamed Chinese buns layered with deep-fried tofu, pickled yellow radish and miso sauce. Complete meals for $10 per person, including tax, tip and an Orange Crush. Average main $5. Open Sunday noon to 7 pm. Unlicensed. Access: barrier-free, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNNN
Bristol Yard
146 Christie, at Pendrith, 647-716-6583. With its period showbiz 8 x 10 glossies on the wall – Keith Moon, Sandie Shaw, Oscar Wilde, the Kray twins – and classic 60s mod soundtrack, ex-Blowup DJ Davy Love’s 20-seat luncheonette is the perfect evocation of a proper British caff. Why, he even makes his meat pies from scratch! Best: beans on toast, here updated as a white navy and kidney bean stew in sweet tomato sauce with crumbled Stilton cheese on thick slices of whole wheat toast the Full Monty, a massive fry-up of two eggs any style, house-made sausage, thick rashers of artisanal bacon, more beans, sautéed mushrooms, smoked home fries, grilled tomato and fried bread the Glasgow cheeseburger, Lorne sausage in sausage gravy on fried potato scones the Maradona, more fried bread dressed with rare grilled steak in spicy chimichurri sauce French toast encrusted with Rice Crispies sided with fresh fruit and clotted cream. Complete rock ‘n’ roll brunches for $20 per person, including tax, tip and a cuppa. Average main $12. Open for brunch Sunday 10 am to 4 pm. No reservations. Licensed. Cash only. Access: one step at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNNN
Hammersmith’s
807 Gerrard E, at Logan, 416-792-9043, hammersmithsbrunch.com. No longer the Logan Grill, Brittany Peglar and Colin Reed’s east-side brunch spot is a godsend for south Riverdale even if the renovated white-on-white interior looks like they ran out of money halfway through the job. Laid-back during the week, the former diner causes lineups every Saturday and Sunday. Best: from a constantly evolving menu, starters like halved baby heirloom tomatoes dressed with fresh burrata, basil pesto and Maldon sea salt basic mains like steak ‘n’ eggs sided with crispy bacon, onion and fried-potato hash chunky chicken salad sandwiches with fresh arugula, grainy mustard and Sriracha on baguette free-range omelettes du jour with sides of Sausage Partners links first-rate baked goods like ex-Drake pastry chef Peglar’s sugar-crusted raspberry and blackberry scones, Soma chocolate chip cookies and local sour cherry muffins to drink, house-made strawberry lemonade. Complete brunches for $25 per person, including tax, tip and a coffee. Average main $12. Open for brunch Sunday 9:30 am to 4 pm. Unlicensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN
