Saturday
Bar Isabel
797 College, at Shaw, 416-532-2222, barisabel.com, @barisabel797 Isabel? Bar Decibel, more like! Though ex-Black Hoof charcuterie king Grant van Gameren’s latest taverna looks like it stepped right out of the back streets of Barthelona, its acoustics recall the nearest bowling alley. A small price to pay for some of the most skilfully executed tapas around. Best: to start, devilled duck eggs dressed with shredded salt cod and morcilla blood sausage the mixed charcuterie platter – water-buffalo slinzega, pork jerky, hunter’s sausage and imported Iberico ham, say – with candied apple mostardo and warm sourdough sprinkled with sea salt southern-fried chicken over deep-fried eggplant drizzled in honey and chili flakes grilled hanger steak with blistered shishito peppers, grilled spring scallions in classic romesco sauce on the side to finish, salted chocolate mousse splashed with buttery olive oil. Complete dinners for $55 per person, including, tax, tip and a glass of cava. Average tapa $11. Open for dinner Saturday 6 pm to 2 am. Reservations accepted. Licensed. Access: barrier-free, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN
Richmond Station
1 Richmond W, at Yonge, 647-748-1444, richmondstation.ca After winning season two of Top Chef Canada last February, ex-Marben toque Carl Heinrich returns with an upscale farm-to-table bistro in the financial district. A timeless room, informed friendly service and Heinrich’s inimitable way with comfort food classics make reservations near-essential. Best: from the all-day menu, start with co-owner Ryan Donovan’s exceptional charcuterie, spicy beef heart salami with juniper-scented lamb terrine, deep-fried headcheese and shredded duck rillettes, say polenta fries with smoky bomba mayonnaise and marinara sauce the Station burger stuffed with juicy shredded short rib on a house-baked bun dressed with aged local cheddar and sweet beet relish, skinny fries and a roasted radish salad on the side Perth County wild boar ragu over house-made orecchiette tossed with sautéed mushrooms and Monforte Dairy Toscano to finish, pastry chef Farzan Fallah’s deconstructed pumpkin pie topped with whipped butterscotch mousse and walnut brittle. Complete dinners for $50 per person (lunches $35), including tax, tip and a glass of wine. Average main $24/$20. Open for dinner Saturday 5 to 10:30 pm. Licensed. Access: barrier-free, eight steps to washrooms. Rating: NNNNN
THR & Co.
97 Harbord, at Robert, 647-748-7199, thrandco.com, @thrandco Cory Vitiello and the crew responsible for the impossibly hip Harbord Room switch gears with this, dare we say it, family-friendly cantina in the old Messis. Genuinely welcoming service, an unobtrusive soundtrack of golden oldies and a shareable neo-Ital carte from chef Curt Martin make reservations essential. Best seats in the house: the two semi-circular tufted red leather banquettes in the front window. Best: to start, deconstructed beef heart tartare with tangy olive relish and dehydrated duck yolk thin semolina-crusted pizzas dressed with locally foraged nettles, sliced potato, pancetta and a runny free-range farm egg papardelle tossed with fresh garden peas and spring favas in a light lemony cream garlicky black squid-ink spaghetti alio e olio-style with charred squid and bottarga roe braised lamb’s neck à la osso bucco with pinenut gremolata to finish, poppyseed lemon cake sozzled with house-made limoncello and topped with toasted marshmallow brittle and buttermilk ice cream. Complete dinners for $50 per person, including tax, tip and an Aperol spritzer. Average main $21. Open for dinner Saturday 5 to 10:30 pm. Reservations accepted. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN
Sunday
Ding Tai Fung
3235 Hwy 7 E, at Fairburn, 905-943-9880 As the perpetually congested parking lot attests, Ding Tai Fung is not only one of celebu-chef Susur Lee’s favourite restaurants, but it would appear the whole of the northeast GTA’s as well.They come for a surprisingly elegant room, welcoming service and some of the best Shanghai-style dim sum this side of the Pacific (and we’re not referring to the Mall). There’s also the matter of the grub, most famously the house’s signature xiao long bao soup dumplings ($6.99). Bowls of slippery house-made rice noodles are the first to suggest some serious heat, their pungent peanut broth copiously splattered with chili oil.But leave it to the aptly named Spicy Wonton to steal the show, a half-dozen or so impossibly delicate wrappers stuffed with gingery minced pork in a red-pepper soup so potent, it could probably strip paint. You’ll be glad you also ordered the stir-fried pea shoots in garlic (all $5.99), if only to counter the pyrotechnics. Open Sunday 10:30 am to 11 pm. Reservations accepted. Unlicensed. Access: Barrier-free. Rating: NNNNN
DT Bistro
154 Harbord, at Brunswick, 416-916-8155, dtbistro.com Although it no longer goes by the name Dessert Trends, owner/chef Donald Duong’s recently refurbished Annex café is still very much a patisserie. That would explain the wall of pricy wedding cakes behind glass that now greets you at the door. His buttermilk scones with Devonshire cream and sour cherry compote ($7) are as perfectly flaky as ever. Described on the menu as pancakes, what show up are more like a half-dozen coconut mini-quiches dressed with spicy chipotle shrimp, mango salsa and the odd kernel of corn ($16). Fabulously crisp deep-fried soft-shelled crabs get sandwiched between two slices of house-baked brioche spread with roasted red pepper aioli, while the savoury mushroom bread pudding topped with a poached egg and smoked salmon is one of the tastiest brunch dishes around. The only thing that could possibly follow Duong’s generously plated beef bourguignon, thick with wild mushrooms on a bed of classic pommes purée (both $18, all with salad), is a nap. Open Sunday 10 am to 5 pm. No reservations. Licensed. Access: barrier-free, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN
Emma’s Country Kitchen
1108 St Clair W, at Northcliffe, 416-652-3662, emmascountrykitchen.com, @emmacountrykitc Ex-Stockyards head cook Rachel Pellett and partner Heather Mee parlay a successful catering business into what’s quite possibly downtown’s best new weekend brunch spot. The café’s minimal weekday lineup’s not too shabby either, most notably the exemplary retro baked goods. Foodie fact: the site of the original Pusateri’s circa 1963. Best: to start, those fabulously flaky biscuits sided with blueberry peach preserves and whipped honey butter the same biscuits as eggs Benedict with house-smoked peameal, poached eggs and a hollandaise infused with whipped cream the Hangover burger, a sage-spiked patty made of ground Beretta Farms pork sausage dressed with local cheddar, house-cured bacon and a house-baked bun and sided with skinny thyme-flecked frites worthy of Jamie Kennedy a breakfast poutine of said terrific frites topped with bacon, cheddar, hollandaise and two poached ‘n’ deep-fried eggs peach-compote-swirled French toast topped with glazed Ontario peaches. Complete brunches for $25 per person, including tax, tip and a coffee. Open Sunday 9 am to 3 pm. No reservations. Unlicensed. Access: barrier-free. Rating: NNNN
