Saturday
AFT Kitchen & Bar
686 Queen E, at Broadview, 647-346-1541, aftbar.com, @aft_bar Taking its name from the acronym for “about fucking time,” Paul Campbell’s southern-fried bistro in the one-time Toucan Taco/Le Rossignol/Pop space delivers considerable ‘cue on one of the loveliest backyard patios east of the Don Valley Parkway. Best: to start, smoked and briefly deep-fried chicken wings in the Buffalo style sided with a whack o’ hand-cut fries for the wayward vegetarian, deep-fried strips of panko-dusted portobello mushrooms with thyme aioli mains like free-range half chicken slathered with sweet Kansas City-style sauce sided with purple cabbage slaw and German potato salad nicely barked and perfectly pink pork side ribs optionally mopped with sauce weekend-only platters with peppercorn-crusted brisket, those meaty ribs and saucy chicken cheddar-studded ground-brisket burgers on eggy Harbord Bakery buns. Complete dinners for $40 per person, including tax, tip and smoked habanero Caesar. Average main $18. Open for dinner Saturday 4 pm to 1 am. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNN
Marky & Sparky’s Smokehouse
520 Annette, at Runnymede, 647-748-4227, @MarkySparkys Despite being featured on an upcoming episode of Restaurant Takeover, Marcus de Simone and Frank DiGenova’s Baby Point barbecue joint manages to rise above the 10-seat take-away’s generic decor. And while they offer an extensive carte of ‘cue – all sourced from DiGenova’s Butcher by Nature across the street – get the best of the bunch in their $60 all-inclusive Ultimate Combo. Best: large enough to feed four Fords, the Combo includes a half-rack of baby-back ribs slathered with mustard and a sweet paprika rub, a dozen dry-rubbed chicken wings with sweet ‘n’ sour cherry sauce, half-pounds of slightly fatty pulled pork and lean machine-sliced brisket, two fennel-flecked pork sausages with caramelized onion jam, four jalapeño-studded cornbread muffins, dill pickle spears, sides of creamy cabbage slaw and baked beans laced with smoked brisket tips to finish, deep fried Mars Bars with chocolate sauce. Complete dinners for $40 per person (lunches $20), including tax, tip and a lemonade. Open for dinner Saturday 5 to 8 pm. No reservations. Unlicensed. Access: barrier-free, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN
Pizzeria Defina
321 Roncesvalles, at Grenadier, 416-534-4414, pizzeriadefina.com No one has yet posed a threat to Libretto, but this stylish family-friendly west-end bistro comes close, from better-than-they-should-be starters to perfectly blistered thin-crust pies in two styles: Neapolitan with a raised edge and completely flat Roman pies. Servers are sweet, if run off their feet. Best: shareable apps like Caesar salad in a grilled garlic vinaigrette kissed with the slightest suggestion of anchovies house-made papardelle in sweet, meaty Bolognese scented with fresh basil chiffonade and shaved parmigiano the Red Hot Chili Pepper pizza dressed with house San Marzano tomato sauce, creamy fior di latte, chorizo, salami and jalapeños cheesy lasagna pizzas, the only thing missing the pasta the pierogi-inspired Roncey topped with thinly sliced potatoes, Asiago, pancetta and guanciale. Complete dinners for $40 per person (lunches $30), including tax, tip and a glass of wine. Average main $15. Open for dinner Saturday 5 to 11 pm. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN
Sunday
Gautama
1416 Gerrard E, at Hiawatha, 416-469-4444, thesiddhartha.com Though the original was shuttered more than a year ago after a fire, Siddhartha rises from the ashes phoenix-like in fancier new digs a few blocks west. Not only is Sid’s all-you-can-eat buffet as exemplary as ever, but it can now be enjoyed al fresco on the only licensed patio in Little India. Best: from the buffet, crisply fried samosas stuffed with potato, peas and mild peppers saag paneer swirled with yogurt biryani-style rice with garden peas and curry leaves stir-fried cabbage with turmeric and mustard seeds mashed eggplant and potato with chilies aloo gobi with curried cauliflower ‘n’ spuds super-moist tandoori chicken legs and thighs while they last to finish, rice pudding, mango ice cream and fresh fruit to drink, lime sodas. Complete buffet dinners for $25 per person (lunches $20), including tax, tip and a domestic lager. Average la carte main $10. Open for $10.99 Sunday lunch buffet 11:30 am to 3:30 pm. Reservations accepted. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN
Goldstone Noodle
266 Spadina, at Dundas, 416-596-9053 Chinatown’s second-most-popular noodle house jumps from early morning till well into the morning of the next day. Rock-bottom prices and a 400-plus-item Cantonese card guarantee a full house, but remember to KISS: keep it simple, sinophile. Best: from the window display, barbecued meat – non-fatty five-spiced duck, succulent pork and tender goose – over al dente mein and barely cooked greens in grease-free chicken broth Soya Sauce Chicken, an alarmingly moist whole steamed bird with mild black bean gravy and incendiary raw garlic ‘n’ chive accompaniment 20 or so stir-fried Sichuan shrimp with sweet green bell pepper seriously tasty pounded, peppered and pan-fried steak with spaghetti Hong Kong-style. Complete meals for $20 per person, including tax, tip and a domestic lager. Average main $9. Open Sunday 8 am to 2 am. Licensed. Access: barrier-free, but crowded space, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN
Three Speed
1163 Bloor W, at Pauline, 647-430-3834 Better known as the Communist’s Daughter’s bigger sister, this Bloordale local features ex-Swan chef Jane Ferriss’s card of comfort food classics on one of the best backyard decks on the west side, cool tunes on the jukebox guaranteed. Best: to start, the muffin du jour, cornbread jalapeño or chocolate chip banana, say the inevitable Benny, free-range poached eggs in hollandaise over beer-braised brisket and Portuguese cornbread a spicy hash of pastrami, spuds, onion ‘n’ cabbage, topped with over-easy eggs baked eggs in a mushroom-miso broth swimming with portobello and cremini sides of smoked Steelhead trout to drink, strong French-pressed I Deal Coffee blend by the Bodum. Complete brunches for $22 per person, including tax, tip and a pint of Three Speed lager. Average main $11. Open for brunch Sunday 10 am to 3 pm. No reservations. Licensed. Access: barrier-free, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN
