Some would say Pino and Ivanna Luca must be nuts to open a gelateria directly across the street from the venerable Sicilian Sidewalk Café in Little Italy. They'd be wrong, of course, because the couple's newly launched Dolce (697 College, at Grace, 416-915-0756) is an entirely different kettle of fish. For starters, the narrow room resembles something you'd find on Milan's fashionable Monte Napoleone, its walls all chic shades of brown, a long chrome display case down one of them. There, find a revolving card of 48 house-made flavours - instant favourite: Bacio (chocolate topped with roasted hazelnut) - as well as dairy-free ices like the intense Very Berry and the slightly more health-conscious soy vanilla. They're even more terrific crumbled with Dolce's hazelnut biscotti.
Kitty-corner from Cucina, the Fish Store (657 College, at Grace, 416-533-2822) has jumped on the burrito bandwagon. We were big fans of the nautically themed noshery back when colourful Leo Schipani - who first made his mark on the local culinary scene at Sisi Trattoria back in the late 80s - was at the helm, but the latest crew's mahi mahi burrito ($7.95) deserves a burial at sea. Wrapped in a thin, ungrilled whole-wheat wrapper, their rendition of the Mission-style meal-in-one is merely the house fish sandwich - sublimely grilled fresh fish, lettuce and tomato squirted with lime - minus the rice, beans, guacamole and salsa.