Comin' up Rose's
Ex-Drake chef Anthony Rose has returned as promised with Rose & Sons (176 Dupont, at St. George, 647-748-5490, roseandsons.ca). Located in the old People's diner, the 30-seat Rose stays true to the Annex institution's greasy-spoon roots with staples like fries 'n' gravy ($6) and onion rings ($5) but pushes the envelope with grilled cabbage salad dressed with anchovies, garlic and pecorino cheese ($10) and pork-chop fried rice with peanuts ($15). Watch for a backyard patio complete with wood-burning oven come next year's barbecue season.
Was it only six weeks ago that owner/chef Aaron Joseph Bear Robe announced that his critically acclaimed Keriwa Café (1690 Queen West, at Roncesvalles, 416-533-2552, keriwacafe.ca) was ditching nightly à la carte service for a once-a-week $300 13-course prix fixe? Things didn't work out quite as planned.
"Obviously, it's more advantageous to offer à la carte," says Bear Robe of the about-face. "It's all the same as before, just a little more casual. Mains now range from $16 to $20, we open earlier, at 5 pm, and we don't take reservations unless it's for a party of six or more. And we don't do brunch."
Debu Saha hasn't had much luck with locations. First, his Biryani House on Roy's Square gave way to a condo wrecking ball. A subsequent move to Wellesley proved a logistical nightmare - round rooms rarely work unless they're at the top of space needles - and its successor on the far reaches of Mount Pleasant alienated most of his downtown fan base. Sadly, after a five-year run, Saha has thrown in the towel and been replaced by Marigold (552 Mt. Pleasant, at Belsize, 647-748-0110, marigoldtoronto.com), proving North Toronto can't get enough generic butter chicken.SD
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