Beers brewed within 100 miles of Toronto aren’t necessarily totally green, since most commercial hops and barley are grown outside Ontario. But for many Toronto drinkers there’s undeniable allure in supporting local brewers whose beers and business culture reflect who we are and where we live. It’s the efforts of the craft beer movement that are re-localizing our brew – just ask the members of the brand new Ontario Hops Growers Association.
STEAM WHISTLE PILSNER
Rating NNNN
Where: Toronto
Distance: 1.6 km
The localest. For an ice-cold beer on a shit-hot day, this lager (okay, Pilsner, to be precise), is a total go-to. Like they say, “Doing one thing really, really well,” really, really close.
Price: 1 x 500ml/$2.80
Availability: LCBO, the Beer Store
VOLO HOUSE ALES FERMIUM DOUBLE BLACK IPA
Rating: NNNNN
Where: Toronto
Distance: 1.7 km
From the kitchen of Bar Volo. Hop bitterness weaves in and out of dark chocolate and clove notes. Complex. Hats off to the Morana family, their beer and their Yonge Street tabernacle.
Price: 1 X 300ml glass/$6.50
Availability: For a limited time at Bar Volo
AMSTERDAM BONESHAKER UNFILTERED IPA
Rating: NNN
Where: Toronto
Distance: 3.1 km
With 7.1 per cent alcohol and modern IPA helpings of hops, Boneshaker lives up to its name. Amsterdam has been supplying downtown-made beer to Torontonians since 1986.
Price: 1 x 500ml/$3.95
Availability: Amsterdam Brewery store
GRANITE BREWERY BEST BITTER
Rating: NNNN
Where: Toronto
Distance: 7.1 km
This long-standing uptown brew pub pioneer is the place to be for England-inspired traditional, cask-conditioned ales. At 4.5 per cent alcohol, the best bitter runs true to form.
Price: 2 litre growler/$12
Availability: Granite Brewery store
GREAT LAKES DEVIL’S PALE ALE
Rating: NNN
Where: Etobicoke
Distance: 14 km
Enduring since 2006, the company’s unholy marketing alliance with Beerlzebub is obviously paying off. Mature, balanced style might also have something to do with it.
Price: 1 x 473ml/$2.60
Availability: LCBO
BLACK OAK PALE ALE
Rating: NNNN
Where: Etobicoke
Distance: 15 km
Always a favourite with the Drink Up tasting panel. Lots of balance, easy drinking but not lacking character. If you were looking for a definitive Toronto style of beer, this would be a good place to start.
Price: 6 x 341ml/$12.75
Availability: LCBO, the Beer Store
CHESHIRE VALLEY ROBUST PORTER
Rating: NNNN
Where: Etobicoke
Distance: 15 km
Cheshire Valley brews out of Black Oak and is only available at beer-centric bars. This nuanced coffee- and smoke-tinged porter with a contrasting hopped edge is worth the hunt.
Price: Variable
Availability: On draft at various bars and pubs
DOUBLE TROUBLE HOPS AND ROBBERS IPA
Rating: NNN
Where: Etobicoke
Distance: 15 km
Brewed by Paul Dickey of Cheshire Valley at Black Oak. Follow? Things get simpler when you taste this balanced, modern IPA with its energetic, peppery finish.
Price: Variable
Availability: On draft at various bars and pubs
KENSINGTON BREWING AUGUSTA ALE
Rating: NNN
Where: Etobicoke
Distance: 15 km
Awaiting its eventual brewery home behind Burger Bar, this admirably restrained pale ale, which considers the maltier side of life, is being made at Black Oak. Soon to debut at the LCBO.
Price: Variable
Availability: On draft at various bars and pubs
COOL LAGER
Rating: NNN
Where: Etobicoke
Distance: 15.7 km
Hey, craft beer snobs – some people genuinely enjoy mass-market-style beers. Deal with it. For a good, locally owned, locally operated everyday beer, go Cool.
Price: 4 x 341ml/$5
Availability: LCBO, the Beer Store
NICKEL BROOK ORGANIC LAGER
Rating: NNNN
Where: Burlington
Distance: 54 km
It’s got some of the most unhip branding in the biz, so it’s a good thing the lager’s so tasty. Robust, toasty with a resonant hop finish and organic to boot.
Price: 473ml/$2.50
Availability: LCBO
MUSKOKA BREWERY MAD TOM IPA
Rating: NNN
Where: Bracebridge
Distance: 183 km
Mad Tom’s come to cottage country with IPA hoppity hipness and 6.4 per cent alcohol. Grapefruit hop flavour dominates, but the full body and fine carbonation stop Tommy from going crazy.
Price: 6 x 355ml/$13.55
Availability: LCBO, the Beer Store
SAINT ANDRE VIENNA LAGER
Rating: NNN
Where: Etobicoke
Distance: 15.7 km
Overshadowed by flamboyant, Johnny-come-lately local brews, Saint André continues its long-standing interpretation of this lesser-known, subtle, balanced style of beer. Contract-brewed at Cool.
Price: 6 x 341ml/$11.45
Availability: LCBO, the Beer Store
CHURCH-KEY NORTHUMBERLAND ALE
Rating: NNN
Where: Campbellford
Distance: 179 km
Compelling yin and yang with the nose and the mouth. Aromas of orange and brown spices contrast with the first hit of bracing, peppery grain on the palate. Great mouthfeel.
Price: 6 x 341ml/$13.75
Availability: LCBO
COUNTY DURHAM SIGNATURE ALE
Rating: NNNNN
Where: Pickering
Distance: 42 km
Beer’s just like people. Having character? Good. Being a character? That’s another thing. This has character. Solid body, astringent hops and then just the tiniest hint of fruitiness that conjures up cherry brandy. Let it warm up just a bit.
Price: 6 x 341ml/$11.95
Availability: LCBO, the Beer Store
MOLSON STOCK ALE
Rating: NNN
Where: Etobicoke
Distance: 26 km
Be careful, Molsons. This week’s “heritage” brand is next week’s marketing darling, and then, kablooey, you shed all the hipster cred. Just ask Black Label next time you see it.
Price: 24 x 341ml/$39.95
Availability: LCBO, the Beer Store
BLACK CREEK OLDE STOUT
Rating: NNN
Where: Oakville
Distance: 41 km
Made in conjunction with the Black Creek Pioneer Village brewery and contracted out of Trafalgar. This chocolatey, toasty, relatively full-bodied stout is no anachronism.
Price: 1 x 500ml/$3.55
Availability: LCBO
CAMERON’S RYE PALE ALE
Rating NNNN
Where: Oakville
Distance: 39 km
RPA offers up the pleasurable experience of flavour complexity built up around deceptively light texture, not dissimilar to a good sparkling wine. Other Cameron’s beers are available at the LCBO and the Beer Store.
Price: Variable
Availability: On draft at various pubs and bars
HOCKLEY VALLEY BREWING DARK
Rating: NNNN
Where: Orangeville
Distance: 82 km
Another English-style ale that leans toward the malt side of the malt/hops/yeast flavour equation. Worth trying just to see that dark doesn’t always mean heavy.
Price: 473ml/$2.65
Availability: LCBO
WATERLOO PREMIUM AMBER
Rating: NNN
Where: Waterloo
Distance: 110 km
Originally known as Brick, Waterloo goes way back to 1984 in the local beer game. With fruitiness, high alcohol and smooth texture, it shows what oak aging can do for a beer.
Price: 1 x 473ml/$2.50
Availability: LCBO
NEUSTADT 10W30 BROWN ALE
Rating: NNN
Where: Neustadt
Distance: 188 km
Here, we’re in the malty, warm range of flavours, with less emphasis on hops, referencing English mild beers. Suitably named, 10W30 is smooth and easy.
Price: 1 x 473ml/$2.70
Availability: LCBO
DENISON’S WEISSBIER
Rating: NNNN
Where: Etobicoke
Distance: 15.7 km
Contracted out at Cool but brewed in the spirit of Bavaria. Be sure to give the can a gentle roll to stir up the yeast sediment which is all part of the weissbier fun.
Price: 473ml/$2.60
Availability: LCBO, the Beer Store
CREEMORE SPRINGS KELLERBIER
Rating: NNN
Where: Creemore
Distance: 119 km
This seasonal beer goes full-time, allowing you to enjoy this take on “cellar beer” year-round. Still delivers Creemore, not Cree-less flavour despite ongoing concerns regarding Molson-Coors ownership.
Price: 1 x 473ml/$2.80
Availability: LCBO, the Beer Store
KING BREWERY PILSNER
Rating: NNNN
Where: Nobleton
Distance: 52 km
An always reliable take on the classic Bohemian style. Made with Czech hops, Czech malts and Czech yeast, it’s not the localest local, but it tastes great.
Price: 6 x 341ml/$12.95
Availability: LCBO, the Beer Store
FLYING MONKEYS SMASHBOMB ATOMIC IPA
Rating: NNN
Where: Barrie
Distance: 93 km
Old Robert Simpson calls himself Flying Monkeys nowadays and makes things like Smashbomb. If you wish to embrace hops in all their resinous glory, get Smashbombed tonight.
Price: 6 x 355ml/$13.25
Availability: LCBO, the Beer Store
F&M STONE HAMMER DARK ALE
Rating: NNNN
Where: Guelph
Distance: 95 km
Perfect for the next Game Of Thrones party. Enthusiastically brown. Rides the heavily roasted malt edge nicely. Fine carbonation out of the bottle.
Price: 6 x 341ml/$12.85
Availability: LCBO
GRAND RIVER BLACKBERRY WHEAT
Rating: NNN
Where: Cambridge
Distance: 99 km
One good thing about locals is they’re more likely to serve up seasonals like this charming offering. Grand’s regular non-seasonal beers, like Curmudgeon IPA, can be had at the LCBO.
Price: Variable
Availability: On draft at various pubs and bars
MILL STREET TANK HOUSE ALE
Rating: NNNN
Where: Scarborough
Distance: 23 km
So ahead of its time, they knew calling it a West-coast-style IPA would just confuse everyone. The brew pub’s in the Distillery District, but almost all the blood, sweat and beers happens at the Scarbeeria brewery.
Price: 6 x 341ml/$12.95
Availability: LCBO, the Beer Store
DUGGAN’S NO. 5 SORACHI LAGER
Rating: Your call
Where: Etobicoke
Distance: 15.7 km
Full disclosure: I’m the sales rep for Duggan’s Brewery, contract-brewed at Cool Brewery. Despite this glaring conflict of interest, I will say that Sorachi Ace hops impart bright, lemony sensations that, when integrated into a 4 per cent lager, depart at frequent intervals from my refrigerator.
Price: 6 x 275ml/$11.25
Availability: LCBO
WELLINGTON IRON DUKE STRONG ALE
Rating: NNN
Where: Guelph
Distance: 97 km
My bottle sample seemed to be lacking the touted fruity notes, but it still packed a warm, high-alcohol, roasty-toasty punch. Probably great poured fresh on draft. Swell label.
Price: 6 x 341ml/$12.50
Availability: LCBO, the Beer Store