WOODLOT 293 Palmerston, at College, 647-342-6307, woodlotrestaurant.com.
Woodlot goes through a lot of wood - about 10,000 pounds of it a month.
The popular west-side spot needs that much hard timber to fire up the apartment-sized wood-burning oven that cooks virtually everything on owner/chef David Haman's rustic comfort food carte, more than three-quarters of it purposefully vegetarian.
Start with crostini layered with charred haloumi cheese and puréed kabocha squash ($12) or grilled hen o' the woods mushrooms over a salad of wild rice, black walnuts and mâche ($13). Slices of fresh burrata come coupled with an organic heirloom tomato salad tossed with rye berries and preserved lemon ($16) as an entree to russet-potato gnocchi in a cheesy pumpkin velouté ($16 small/$23 large).
To counter meaty mains like grilled ox tongue ($23) and whey-fed pork chop ($28), Haman stuffs sweet Vidalia onions with cauliflower and house-baked breadcrumbs ($23), then sides them with a Brussels sprout gratin in classic béchamel ($7). And no meal's complete without his textbook pavlova ($11).
Are his portions still as famously massive as ever?
"Things have scaled back a little bit since we first opened, because no one could ever finish anything," smiles Haman. "But pretty much everybody goes home with a doggy bag."
Dinner Tuesday to Sunday 5 to 11 pm; bakery same days from noon. Closed Monday, some holidays. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement.