Buy a navy suit
“Your first suit should be navy, which is the most dynamic colour. It complements most skin tones and is easy to pair with a diverse range of shirts, ties, belts and shoes. For your second suit go for grey, and for your third go for black, which can work for business and formal.”
Christopher Bates, designer (christopherbates.com)
Modern Bespoke Collection, Garrison Bespoke
DON’T go for the skinny lapel
“Look for a suit jacket with a standard peak or notch lapel instead of a skinny lapel. A skinny lapel isn’t a timeless piece to own. Standard peak and notch lapels create a clean and simple look that can be worn to the office or on the weekend. They also offer great sight lines on the jacket that lead up toward the wearer’s neck.”
Michael Nguyen, designer, Garrison Bespoke (garrisonbespoke.com)
Don’t just shop online
“Don’t waste your time researching suits to death online. Browsing though digital catalogues and blogs is great to be inspired by colours or coordination, but it tells you nothing about the fit on you or the subtleties of the garment. You must touch and feel to discover what kind of suit is best.”
think about value
“Pay very close attention to what this really means. Good value doesn’t mean looking for the best deal or being overly price-conscious. Not all suits are created equal, and what you don’t see (the inside construction) is the most important. You truly get what you pay for. Invest in a well-made suit: either semi-canvas or full canvas. Without getting too technical, when you try on a jacket, it should flow and follow the lines of the body. It should look three-dimensional and soft, not flat and pressed.”
Adam Gallo, buyer for Harry Rosen (harryrosen.com)
Modern Bespoke Collection, Garrison Bespoke
think about fabric
“Light- to mid-weight wool is suitable for year-round use. Heavier wools are best for fall/winter, cottons and linens for spring/summer. If you’re looking for a travel suit, opt for a mohair or wool-mohair blend that is wrinkle-resistant.” – Christopher Bates
Prioritize fit
“Often men are focused on a specific colour or pattern, which is important, but the top priority should always be fit. The first step to nailing this is to know your size. If you don’t know, get measured, and have your sales associate show you suits that are cut for your body type.” – Mallory Hood, Distillery store manager, Gotstyle (gotstyle.ca)
AVOID shoulder padding
“You never want to look like a linebacker in your suit. Look for a suit jacket with little to no padding in the shoulders. The goal is to create a soft slope up the neck toward the head and avoid a boxy look.” – Michael Nguyen
Trust your tailor
“The final element of nailing a great fit is having a skilled tailor. Alterations will clean up the suit, making an off-the-rack purchase look like it was cut for your frame.” – Mallory Hood
Look for a two-button suit
“Never button the bottom button, only the top. A two-button suit keeps the torso looking shorter and the legs looking longer- making you look taller and slimmer.” – Michael Nguyen
Protect your purchase
“Once you’ve invested in a suit, here are a few tips for helping it last. Install crotch and heel guards these areas see a lot of wear and tear, so have them reinforced. Do not over-dry clean! Do it twice a year, unless you spill something on it. Have your dry cleaner steam and press it when your suit needs to be freshened up. Lastly, make sure it hangs on a proper hanger so the shoulders maintain their shape.” – Mallory Hood