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My wife and I want to travel before we have kids. You know that conversation: “Just wait till you have a house and kids – you’ll never have the money to travel!” Blah blah.
Then we think, what if they’re right? We’re thinking about getting pregnant and we’ve gone to an open house or two – we’ve got to get off the continent now.
But where to? Our list of potential places includes about 170 countries, so we put them in a hat and pull out Brazil. Muito bonito, Brazil!
We try hostelling in Rio, arriving at almost the same time as six other travellers, and we all get along marvellously. For three days our group hits the beaches and eateries.
The surf on Copacabana beach is so big I get flipped end over end twice in one wave, leaving my trunks full of sand, I mean.
Corner vendors everywhere in this humid and gorgeous city sell spectacular coffee and slabs of cake, deep-fried pita pockets with cheese, and beer. There’s nothing more liberating than drinking a beer on a city bus – legally.
After saying sad goodbyes to our new friends, we head north to the state of Bahia and the heavenly island of Morro de Sao Paulo. No cars are allowed on the sand roads, and the “taxis” are actually akin to wheel barrows. Each of the island’s four beaches has a different feel.
We stay on Beach 3, a short walk to partyville but far enough to get some peace and quiet. It has perfect blue skies, hot, hot sun and sand so luxurious it felt like a massage under our feet.
The morning low tide exposes coral and leaves warm pools that trap fish. We spend our mornings floating in God’s hot tubs while 30 or 40 vibrantly coloured fish tickle our legs and back.
We planned to bus down the coast to other perfect little oceanside towns, but, realizing we’re already in one, we stay for seven days. When the time comes to leave, we can’t. The island’s only bank machine hasn’t been filled, and the ferry guys only take cash. Oh well, what’s one more night in paradise?
Once off the island, we catch the overnight bus to Caravelas, the casting-off point to sail to Abrolhos, a cluster of five environmentally protected islands 75 kilometres off the coast. The distance between the islands and the mainland is also protected, and from August to November it’s home to many pods of humpback whales and their young.
On our two-day overnight sail, we see eight different mothers and their calves and get to watch young whales floating and learning to swim.
It’s the most awesome thing I’ve ever seen. At the islands we snorkel and swim with sea turtles, fish and birds of all kinds.
We board the “executivo” bus back to Rio, an overnight ride with snacks served, pillows and blankets, and seats that recline into a bed.
With three days left, Rio calls us. We do everything we can fit in: the statue of Christ, Ipanema beach, a football match, hiking Tijuca National Park and even a movie where I get to drink beer.
All of Brazil is fantastic, friendly and safe. If we don’t get pregnant, we’ll go back next year.
But you know how that conversation goes.
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