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Tasting wine by wine

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The number of wineries and samples can easily overwhelm, so any tour of Niagara wine country should start with picking a designated driver and hatching a game plan to visit a small number of producers in a day. One way to focus your attack is to select one varietal or winemaking style, such as Riesling or Cabernet blends. Here are some suggestions for must-taste Niagara wines.

Pinot Noir

WHERE Creekside Estate Winery 2001

WHAT Signature Pinot Noir

PRICE $24.95

WHY This is a wine with impressive concentration and character, from one of Niagara’s pioneering forces for quality Pinot Noir.

INFO www.creeksideestatewinery.com

WHERE Coyote’s Run Estate Winery

WHAT 2003 Pinot Noir

PRICE $18

WHY One of two Pinot Noirs released by new Niagara-on-the-Lake winery Coyote’s Run. Expect lively cherry and berry fruit aromas and appealing pepper and earth flavours.

INFO www.coyotesrunwinery.com

WHERE Henry of Pelham Family Estate Winery

WHAT 2002 Speck Family Reserve Pinot Noir

PRICE $40

WHY A surprising wine with real substance and elegance, this impresses with its smoky concentration, good intensity and rich, mouth-filling flavours. It’s not cheap, but no Pinot Noir of this quality is.

INFO www.henryofpelham.com

WHERE Lailey Vineyard

WHAT 2003 Pinot Noir

PRICE $25

WHY Lailey Vineyard’s Pinot Noir reveals a cherry/berry-like fragrance and flavour that gains interest from some intriguing resin and caramel notes.

INFO www.laileyvineyard.com

Riesling

WHERE Cave Spring Cellars

WHAT 2004 Off-Dry Riesling

PRICE $12.95

WHY Cave Spring’s Off-Dry Riesling sets the bar for fruity wines in Niagara. The new vintage offers good citrus aromas and tasty grapefruit and lime flavours.

INFO www.cavespringcellars.com

WHERE Flat Rock Cellars

WHAT 2004 Riesling

PRICE $14.95

WHY This attention-getting Riesling presents a compelling purity of fruit on the nose and palate. Made in a very clean and exciting dry style.

INFO www.flatrockcellars.com

WHERE Thirteenth Street Wine Co.

WHAT 2004 Funk Riesling

PRICE $16

WHY This delicious wine’s distinctive fruit-cocktail aroma and fleshy peach flavour can be traced directly to the fruit from Gunther Funk’s carefully cultivated Riesling vines.

INFO www.13thstreetwines.com

WHERE Vineland Estates

WHAT 2004 Dry Riesling

PRICE $10.95

WHY This zesty, flavourful wine is best summed up in one word: electric. A beautiful wine at a great price, Vineland’s Dry Riesling offers solid value and straightforward pleasure.

INFO www.vineland.com

Chardonnay

WHERE Daniel Lenko Estate Winery

WHAT 2002 Signature Chardonnay

PRICE $39.95

WHY A brawny Chardonnay with assertive oak character and a good dose of pineapple, lemon, ginger spice and vanilla flavours.

INFO www.daniellenko.com

WHERE Fielding Estate Winery

WHAT 2004 Chardonnay

PRICE $12.95

WHY This serious unoaked Chardonnay crosses the palate with real focus and finesse, conveying expressive fruit flavours and bright acidity.

INFO www.fieldingwines.com

WHERE Lailey Vineyard

WHAT 2002 Chardonnay Canadian Oak

PRICE $29

WHY Aging in Canadian oak barrels imparts a distinctive fennel and anise character, adding complexity to the attractive toffee and coconut flavours.

INFO www.laileyvineyard.com

WHERE Peninsula Ridge Estates Winery

WHAT 2003 Reserve Chardonnay

PRICE $24.95

WHY This wine’s rich character is balanced with refreshing acidity that keeps things nicely focused. It builds anticipation for the release of the top-tier 2003 Vintner’s Blend Chardonnay later this year.

INFO www.peninsularidge.com

Cabernet blends

WHERE Henry of Pelham Family Estate

WHAT 2002 Unfiltered Cabernet-Merlot

PRICE $29.95

WHY This rich, supple and spicy red features an appealingly creamy texture. Henry of Pelham’s Cab-Merlot is consistently one of Niagara’s top wines.

INFO www.henryofpelham.com

WHERE Jackson-Triggs Niagara Estate

WHAT 2002 Proprietors’ Grand Reserve Meritage

PRICE $23.95

WHY The flavours of this attention-grabbing red are precisely calibrated, gaining welcome complexity from coffee and milk chocolate notes. There’s a lot of character here for not a lot of money.

INFO www.jacksontriggswinery.com

WHERE Lakeview Cellars

WHAT 2002 Meritage

PRICE $19.95

WHY This Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant blend (with Cabernet Franc and Merlot) shows the strong quality of Niagara’s 2002 harvest in its abundance of cherry and berry fruit flavours.

INFO www.lakeviewcellars.on.ca

WHERE Stratus Vineyards

WHAT 2002 Red

PRICE $38

WHY This vinifera blend combines the usual suspects (Cabernets and Merlot) with rare and exotic varieties. Its concentration and integration add to the wine’s obvious appeal.

INFO www.stratuswines.com

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