Even though the restaurant is just seven weeks old, Campechano's owners might balk at being called "modern Mexican."
"The aim was to create something very classic, like you would find in Mexico, as opposed to our version of Mexican food," says co-owner Raena Fisher. Adds her partner, chef Daniel Roe, "It's as close as it can be to a Mexican taqueria. We're not trying to come up with anything new; it's just what it would be in Mexico."
Roe grew up in Mexico, moved to Canada when he was 20 and spent the last 10 years cooking at spots like La Carnita and the Black Hoof. His cousin, who owns several taquerias in Mexico, offered to go into business with him, and we can sample the results in an airy little spot on Adelaide that once held Sadie's Diner.
The menu is short: just six tacos ("the most common ones in Mexico City," Roe says) and four quesadillas, which more closely resemble monstrous tacos packed with oozing queso than the panini-pressed pub apps you're probably expecting. There's also a sea bass ceviche ($8), tiny in size but big in citrusy punch when spooned onto chips, and perfect little cubes of flan ($4) for dessert.
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Updated March 1, 2016