Does the super-hip Dundas West strip really need another cutting-edge cantina? It does when the results are this delish: a spacious white-on-white gallery-like space, attitude-free service and a card that flirts with Southeast Asia (hello, Susur!) and classic French country comfort.
Best: to start, chicken liver pâté à la campagne dressed with pickled celery and paired with smoked ham hock croquettes and house-made piccalilli; ribbons of English cucumber and fennel tossed with pomegranate seeds and crumbled Greek feta; mains like King Cole Farms duck confit with baked gnocchi and wilted spinach in roasted garlic cream; braised lamb shank ravioli finished with buttery puréed cauliflower; at brunch, crisp rosti dressed with peppery arugula, sided with smoked salmon, capers and crème fraîche; to finish, flourless chocolate fudge cake.
Complete dinners for $55 (brunches $25), including tax, tip and a glass of wine. Average main $21/$12. No reservations. Licensed. Access: barrier-free.
Updated Jul 25, 2013