Rating: NNN
Shanghai Cowgirl (538 Queen West, at Bathurst, 416-203-6623) Noisy and smoky, this rockin’ resto offers updated greasy-spoon grub with soul-food twists in a room that recalls a sleek deco diner. Best: Sterling Silver Sirloin, a considerable 12-ounce steak sided with roasted potatoes, perfectly timed buttery green beans and pan jus battered schnitzel-like Chicken-Fried Steak with dairy-rich country gravy and corn on the cob Cajun-spiced Blackened Tater Salad in smooth house-made mayo pecan pie or boozy Jägermeister chocolate mousse for dessert. Complete dinners for $30 per person ($18 breakfast or lunch), including all taxes, tip and a domestic beer. Open Sunday to Thursday 10:30 am to midnight, Friday and Saturday 10:30 am to 4 am. One step at door, washrooms in basement. Licensed. NNN
