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Food Food & Drink

Slow Room slow

Black Skirt isn’t the only College Street cantina leading the charge back to rustic Italiana. Two blocks east, Roberto and Sandra Mandarino’s tiny Slow Room (874 College, at Concord, 416-271-2790, rating: NNN) is the antithesis of fast food, the star of the coffee house’s minimal card their Saturday-only porchetta sandwich.

“You want crackling on that?”

Why, yes, we do. And, while you’re at it, a splash of fruity olive oil on that Riviera bun to go with all that gorgeous slow-cooked pork shoulder, belly and butt stratified with ribbons of silky-smooth fat.

Those of a more herbivorous bent will appreciate the Room’s daily meat-less meatball sandwich (both $6.75): a pair of unusually beefy eggplant fritters in family-recipe ragu dressed with fresh basil on crusty Italian baguette, well worth its painstakingly slow assembly.

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