A good taco is easy to find in Toronto – but maybe not around the Ryerson campus, where hefty, student-friendly burrito bricks (Chipotle, Z-Teca, Burrito Boyz) reign supreme. That’s changed thanks to Tacos 101 (101 Dundas East, at Church, 416-362-8126, tacos101.com), which does slightly more than what it says on the label. While the name, tiny storefront (formerly an It’s All Grk) and location might suggest slapdash Tex Mex geared toward an undiscerning student crowd, the place does indeed present a solid crash course in traditional Mexican tacos.
Owner Jeff Sato previously ran a now-defunct sandwich shop called Between Two Buns in Vancouver. One of his favourite hangouts out west was a taqueria, and when he moved to Toronto, he decided opening one of his own would be his next move. “I know we’re not breaking new ground in Toronto, but it’s an idea I really wanted to run with.” He went searching for the right chef and found Julio Campos, a native of Mexico who moved to Peterborough 13 years ago, then followed his culinary career around the globe (he was in Paris when Sato hired him).
Campos’ approach was to stick to the classics. “These are recipes that are old, from generations and generations ago,” he says. “I did some of my own recipes as well, but still keeping some of the authenticity of the food.”
Sato suggested they have a traditional al pastor taco and slow-cooked carnitas on the menu, but the rest was up to Campos, who concocted a small slate of hefty double-wrapped tacos (at a respectable $4 each, two would make a decent meal).
The Toronto-standard fish taco features a finger of fluffy beer-battered cod garnished with mango pico de gallo, chipotle aioli and avocado puree the carnitas, a new menu addition during the soft-launch, are flavourful if a bit dry (though the pico de gallo and selection of three stellar housemade hot sauces help it along).
Vegetarians used to being stuck with one uninspired bean-and-cheese option will enjoy Campo’s standout nopal tostada topped with slivers of pickled cactus, refried beans, queso, pico and a swirl of avocado crema. Rounding things out: Fresh-fried, gloriously greasy tortilla chips sprinkled with sea salt, and housemade horchata and jamaica. Ryerson kids: Before you make your inaugural journey across town to explore Seven Lives or Tacos El Asador, head here for a solid crash course.
See listing.
food@nowtoronto.com | @nataliamanzocco
