Sitting on an express bus nibbling Indian street snacks on the way to Mississauga, I thought I was ready for Tandoori Flame (5975 Mavis, 905-502-8555, tandooriflame.com). But nothing prepared me for the biggest Indian restaurant in North America.
At 10,000 square feet, Tandoori Flame – a vast, stand-alone building in the Heartland Town Centre – is an experience. Aside from the exotic font used for the restaurant’s name, the exterior is reminiscent of a steak house. Nothing but the name marks it as an Indian restaurant.
But the scents of spices and mild incense permeate the air inside the welcoming rooms. Design-wise, it’s a blend of modern temple and industrial. There are high ceilings, exposed steel and plenty of natural light from mahogany-framed windows in three seating areas. White brick walls and beige brick tiling in the buffet give that area anelegant feel. Scattered everywhere are Indian artifacts, cooking vessels and beautiful paintings.
As far as the buffet goes, my only advice is to pace yourself. While you may cringe at the notion of all-you-can-devour eateries, the food here is amazingly fresh. The menu is overseen by Indian-born chef Anil Lekhwar, who strives to spotlight every region of India with Tandoori Flame’s 150 flavours.
The standout on this visit is the Atishi – lamb chops marinated in yogurt, with garam masala, chana and green cardamom seeds, all cooked in a clay tandoor. I don’t usually gravitate to lamb on restaurant menus, but that charred crust and succulent fat interspersed with tender meat are irresistible.
Other winners include the Tangri Kebab, tender turmeric-dusted chicken drumsticks pappadum scrolls puffy, garlic-studded naan and the creamy fish and lamb curries.
Save room for dessert. All the sweets are made from scratch, the saffron yogurt pops a definite delight. Their mild sweetness and lovely floral notes help soothe any spice-inflicted discomfort.
Owner Shraey Gulati beams with pride in his establishment and in the precious objects on display, some of which have historical significance. That cultural dimension is bolstered by lively bhangra dancers on weekends and special occasions. Gulati’s success at this location and another in Brampton is prompting ideas about expanding to Toronto proper. Here’s hoping!
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