The first rule of Tortería San Cosme, a Mexican eatery devoted entirely to sandwiches, is that there's no such thing as a Mexican sandwich.
"It's an oxymoron," says owner/chef Arturo Anhalt. "In Mexico, you'd ask, 'What is this - a sandwich?' They'd say 'No. It's a torta.'"
Another key rule? "From the start, we said no tortillas, no tacos, nothing to do with what people are used to."
Though tortas were always on the menu at Milagro, where Anhalt is head chef, they were constantly overshadowed in taco-mad Toronto. But if the steady crowds cycling in and out of what used to be Kensingtons café are any indication, this city is more than ready for the advent of the torta.