For-lease signs and cash outlets abound, but on any given sunny Saturday, the few blocks on Eglinton between Marlee and Dufferin come alive with the strains of reggae and the smell of salt fish and jerk.
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Long before it was dubbed the International Market by local politicos determined to smooth its rough edges, Eglinton West has been surviving on the street smarts and can-do attitude of Caribbean immigrants.
Today, Filipino bulk food and clothes stores add to the eclectic mix of barbershops, beauty supply outlets and record stores along the strip.
At Trea-Jah-Isle Records (1514 Eglinton West, 416-787-7615), “your one stop Rastafari centre,” Obama canvas shoes and carved walking sticks sit in the cluttered front window alongside a poster pitching Amharic language classes. A good place to load up for a day of tripping.
Across the street at Spence’s Bakery (1539 Eglinton West, 416-782-7850), the jerk’s been coming hot off the grill since 10 this morning. Bide your time with some baked goods before heading out on a search to find your soul. The spirit world is only a doorstep away.
The Canadian Korean Buddhists’ Association (1564 Eglinton West, 647-435-8532) has set up shop. Further west, a half-dozen storefront churches peek out from neglected spaces. At Saint Simon Religious Supplies Store (1643 Eglinton West, 416-784-2987), herbs, oils and talismans used in the black magic rituals of Santeria offer over-the-counter salvation.
Santeria, a mix of Yoruba, Roman Catholic and native American traditions, dates back to the first slaves brought to the Caribbean from Africa.
Maria A. Shchuka Library (1745 Eglinton West, 416-394-1000) boasts one of the city’s best collections of Afro-Caribbean history. A worthwhile detour: Roti King (1688 Eglinton West, 416-781-8432), for the goat special (usually served up with footie on the tube).
As you head south on Oakwood, the grit gives way to whimsy – a rotating display of odds and ends (call it performance art) on the front patio of the house at Gloucester, Red Pepper Spectacle Arts’ mosaic at Belvedere, and the Russian Stuff & More (488 Oakwood, 416-596-7046) store at Ashbury.
At the foot of Arlington a few blocks east, Cedarvale Park beckons, a good spot to catch locals in an impromptu game of cricket – or chase the ghost of Ernest Hemingway. Legend has it the famous Star-man-turned-literary-icon frequented the ravine on visits to the city.
It’s a 15-minute walk from Cedarvale to the final destination on the Eglinton West lineup, the world-famous Albert’s Real Jamaican Foods (542 St. Clair West, 416-658-9445) at Vaughan and St. Clair. Where else?
The trek to Albert’s is transcendental. Stops along the way include the Occult Shop (109 Vaughan, 416-656-6564), where incense tempts.
A short sweep down the street, the colourful arch of the Karma Sonam Dargye Ling Tibetan Buddhist Centre (86 Vaughan, 416-653-5371) calls out to passersby. Meditation, teachings and Tibetan languages classes are available weekly. Prayer flags strung from a huge tree bless the surroundings.
Enzo DiMatteo
Strictly Ital
1720 Eglinton W, at Glenholme, 416-784-1466. Named for the Rastafarian term used to describe their largely vegetarian diet, Richard Everton’s bare-bones, ceramic-tiled room goes the extra mile by making his entire Caribbean menu vegan. Open Monday to Friday 11 am to 7 pm, Saturday 11 am to 8 pm. Average main: $7. Unlicensed. Access: barrier free, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN
Shanty’s
1806 Eglinton W, at Dufferin, 416-785-1205. Quite possibly Toronto’s smallest jerk shack, Marcia Sterling’s gaudily decorated take-away is also the most atmospheric, complete with lush vegetation, a clothesline hung with Jamaican tabloids and a mural of Haile Selassie. Though seating’s limited to six tops, this tiny spot offers seriously spiced island fare. Open daily 9 am to 11 pm. Average main $8. Unlicensed. Cash only. Access: barrier-free, no washrooms. Rating: NNN
Steven Davey
