Every fashion editor lining the front row of last night’s Morales show at Montreal Fashion Week must have felt like a dowdy bore in his and her black-on-black-on-black ensembles as the designer paraded a colour wheel’s worth of sublime looks down the runway. The combination of pleated frocks in hyper pigmented silks and hand-painted prints proved once-and-for-all that no one is more worthy of our collective fashion drool than Renata Morales.
The look was unquestionably modern and stylishly unique from the models’ heads (capped with black, blunt banged wigs) to toes (slinking down the catwalk in coral painted booties). Pleats in accordion, knife, antique and sunburst forms constructed boxy, Balenciaga-esque dresses and gathered across light blouses in hues of deep pinks, purples, reds and strong metallics.
The entire presentation was backed by a kaleidoscope screen saver-style video and scored by a brilliant musician mimicking a DJ mix on his solo saxophone.
Rush Couture preceded the Morales show with another colour statement; this time juxtaposing primary tones against crisp white. Cobalt blue, mustard yellow and a grassy green shade offset blouses with flourishes of white silk at their shoulder and pinch pleated taffeta skirts with tulle rosettes at their waist. Two highlight pieces were dresses overlaid with grid-like aprons of knotted strips.
Earlier in the day, the Iris collection was ready to hop off the models and into the wardrobes of every career gal and mother of the bride. Wearability is important, especially in a manufacturing centre like Montreal, and the Iris line was well fit and, according to the model who exclaimed “très doux” as she wandered by, comfortable.
Wearability can also have flair though and M Siamo’s Marisa Minicucci proved that with her night’s finale show. Plastic trench coats and off centre prints could have been executed in a much more conceptual fashion but by her seasoned, saleability-minded hand, they were still practically chic.