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Day 8 : Gelato, pizza, and an Italian suit. Hello, Corso Italia.

Heading toward Dufferin on St. Clair is a European cross-border experience simply by crossing a line you’ve fallen into another culture where people speak another language.

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This is Toronto’s Corso Italia, the real Little Italy.

Before you engage in food and retail therapy, take in the St. Clare Catholic Church (133 Westmount) just east of Dufferin. Even if you’re not a believer, sitting down on the bench on the southwest side of the building, opposite the statue of St. Mary feels like an old Roman Catholic cloister.

Head west to Dufferin and then south to the Dufferin/St. Clair branch of the Toronto Public Library (1625 Dufferin, 416-393-7712). Originally named the Earlscourt branch in 1921 (see the stone sign over the entrance), its interiors were painted with a series of recently restored murals. Pick up info on these very cool pieces of art at this quiet spot.

You can go high-end at Novecento (1228 St. Clair West, 416-654-9900) or old-school at the famous Tricolore Billiards & Bar (1240 St. Clair West, 416-654-4228). It’s rammed at all times – more so during World Cup.

Between these two cafés lies Centro Trattoria & Formaggio (1224 St. Clair West, 416-656-8111). Once inside, you’ll swear you’ve been transported to the Old World. Cheeses hang along the deli , the shelves are crammed with varieties of antipasti and pasta. In the back, a full-scale trattoria offers classic Italian dishes.

The five blocks west of Dufferin constitute retail central. Chic clothing stores like Lascala (1190 St Clair West, 416-652-1606) for gentlemen and Gente (1232 St. Clair West, 416-657-1461) for ladies line the avenue.

Across the street you’ll find Eden Trattoria (1331 St. Clair West, 416-656-5511), home of the original La Sem Pattiserie & Cafe, which in 1963 became our first licensed outdoor café after a long battle with blue, dry Toronto.

Turn east and cross Dufferin to Marcello’s Pizzeria (1163 St. Clair West, 416-656-6159) for the city’s best pizza.

On the same side of St. Clair is La Paloma (1357 St. Clair West, 416-656-9900), a gelateria without equal. Choose from over 50 flavours at this mammoth emporium that’s been operating for over 40 years.

Across the road is Corso Italia’s prime green spot, Prospect Cemetery. Established in 1890, the cemetery is famous for incorporating the natural landscape into the design. A granite Madonna and Child statue sits atop the Lights of the Madonna memorial at the entrance, and the veterans section contains a Cross of Sacrifice designed by architect Edwin Lutyens.

Exploring could take hours, bringing you back to St. Clair in time for dinner. If you’re looking for an Old-World joint complete with checkered tablecloths, the Big Ragu (1338 Lansdowne, 416-654-7248) is your spot.

Or for a splurge, check out La Bruschetta (1317 St. Clair West, 416-656-8622) and its awesome tiramisu.

Susan G. Cole

Global grub

Big Ragu

1338 Lansdowne, at St. Clair, 416-654-7248. Dripping candles, checkered tablecloths and the soundtrack to The Big Night on the CD player make owner/chef Carmine “The Big Ragu” Accogli’s Old World menu even more authentic. Open for dinner Sunday and Tuesday to Thursday 5 to 11 pm, Friday and Saturday 5 pm to midnight. Average main: $20. Licensed. Access: two steps at narrow entrance, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN

La Bruschetta

1317 St Clair W, at St. Clarens, 416-656-8622. For nearly 30 years, Benny Piantoni and family have been flying the flag for rustic Italian cooking in a room frequently populated by visting celebs like Benecio del Toro. Not famous? Visit once and be remembered forever. Open for lunch Wednesday to Friday 12:30 to 2 pm, dinner Monday to Saturday 5:30 to 10:30 pm. Licensed. Access: barrier-free, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN

Marcello’s

1163 St Clair W, at Dufferin, 416-656-6159. This family-friendly trat offers some of the best no-nonsense Italian food in town. Though some local pizzerias don’t fire up their ovens till suppertime – hello, Ferro! – Marcello’s has its ready to roar by noon. Open Monday to Wednesday 11:30 am to 10:30 pm, Thursday to Saturday 11:30 am to 11 pm, Sunday 1 to 10:30 pm. Average main: $17. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN

Steven Davey

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