Recently reviewed

Tons of restaurants, crossing cultures, every week


Brunch

Hoof Cafe @ Hoof Raw Bar 926 Dundas W, at Gore Vale, 647-346-9356, theblackhoof.com. Shuttered in 2011 when the Black Hoof offshoot became too damned popular, Jennifer Agg’s nose-to-tail brunch spot returns with a room twice the size across the street. Yes, weekend lineups are as legendary as ever but, any other time, the new Cafe’s quite relaxed. Best: beef tongue Benny with textbook hollandaise and 62.5C slow-poached eggs, an arugula salad on the side deconstructed Egg McMuffins of blood sausage and over-easy eggs breakfast cassoulets with navy beans, pork hock, sausage and lardons finished with pickled cippolini onions and dry-roasted kale southern-fried sweetbreads over maple-glazed waffles in jalapeno compound butter challah French toast with whipped cream, pickled pears and seared foie gras. Complete brunches for $35 per person, including tax, tip and a cocktail. Average main $14. Open Thursday to Saturday 10 am to 3 pm, Sunday 10 am to 4 pm. Closed Monday to Wednesday, holidays. No reservations. Licensed. Access: two steps at door, three steps to washroom. Rating: NNNNN

Pizza

Danforth Pizza House 920 Danforth, at Jones, 416-463-4927. Please don’t bother Emilio. Don’t pester him with questions about what type of flour he uses or where he sources his tomatoes or ask him to pose for a photograph for your food blog. Leave him alone to focus on what he’s been doing best since the 60s: creating the local benchmark for old-school thick-crusted pies. Named #6 in NOW’s January 2013 top 20 pizza countdown. Minimal seating, takeout encouraged, no delivery. Best: unabashedly doughy and lightly charred crusts abundantly brushed with basic house sauce and tossed with mozzarell’ and optional pepperoni, crunchy green pepper, sliced fresh mushrooms, smoky bacon and caramelized onion (House Special) additional toppings like anchovies, green ‘n’ black olives, hot banana peppers, pineapple chunks and sliced tomatoes highly recommended – double cheese. Complete meals $10 per person, including tax, tip and a Brio. Average pizza $13. Open Monday to Saturday 3 to 10 pm, Sunday and holidays 4 to 9 pm. No reservations. Unlicensed. Cash only. Access: barrier-free, no washrooms. Rating: NNNNN

Thai

Sabai Sabai 225 Church, at Dundas E, 647-748-4225, sabaisabaito.ca. Sukhothai’s Nuit and Jeff Regular bounce back from Khao San Road with their tastiest Thai trat yet. Just don’t come looking for nuclear meltdowns. Instead of heat for heat’s sake, chef Nuit layers her spicing to allow the subtle nuances of lime, ginger and lemongrass to steal the show. Best: at dinner, shareable tapas-style plates like crisply char-grilled chicken wings stir-fried shell-on shrimp with holy basil steamed catfish custard with coconut cream that echos pumpkin mousse skewers of tender pork loin with vinegary nam chim dip cold chicken noodle salad with toasted smoky rice powder at lunch, spicy beef soup with rice noodles and crushed peanuts old favourites like creamy Khao Soi noodles with shredded chicken breast. Complete dinners for $30 per person (lunches $20), including tax, tip and a mock cocktail. Average tapas $7/$12 lunch mains. Open for lunch daily 11:30 am to 2:30 pm, dinner nightly 5:30 to 11 pm. Closed some holidays. Licensed. Access: barrier-free, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN

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