DELI MAN (Erik Greenberg Anjou). 91 minutes. Rating: NNN See listing.
Where to watch: iTunes
There are going to be a lot of growling stomachs at screenings of Deli Man. And that’s sort of the point: Erik Greenberg Anjou’s sprightly documentary is designed to make you appreciate – and crave – a good brisket.
Deli Man explores Jewish delicatessen culture across North America, and how the smoked-meat imperative has influenced and transformed generations. Our guide to this world is Ziggy Gruber, a cheerful Houston deli owner whom the director follows to delis across America, including such iconic establishments as Manhattan’s Carnegie, Stage and 2nd Avenue delis and Canter’s in L.A. There’s also a side trip up to Toronto for a stop at Caplansky’s.
Intercutting behind-the-counter bustle with talking-heads interviews with the likes of Larry King, Jerry Stiller and Fyvush Finkel – with authors David Sax and Michael Wex providing some much-needed context – Deli Man makes for a pleasant investigation of the legacy and mythology of Jewish food culture.