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Drinks Food & Drink

Revive the Corpse again

Once upon a time, day drinking wasn’t reserved for vacationers, uptown housewives or alcoholics. It was socially embraced and in some cases needed in order to face the day.

Some say the etymology of the word “cocktail” comes from an old-time garnish of rooster’s feathers (but probably not). Who would consider such a cumbersome (and gross) decoration? 

A habitual morning drinker with a sense of humour, that’s who.

The rise-and-shine cocktail was such a hit around the turn of the 20th century that a small family of drinks emerged tailored to the daily ritual of shaking off the sandman and widening one’s eyes to the world. These bore the fitting label of Corpse Revivers, close relatives of hair-of-the-dog.

The Corpse Reviver #2 (equal parts gin, orange liqueur, Lillet blanc and fresh lemon with a skiff of absinthe) is the most memorable and delicious of these. True to its origins, it’s a damn fine brunch cocktail and an easy drink to wrap your mind and mouth around.

Just be sure to heed the sage words of Harry Craddock (who compiled the Savoy Cocktail Book, where this recipe was published in 1930): “Four of these in swift succession will quickly un-revive the corpse again.”

Rush Lane (563 Queen West, 416-551-7540, rushlaneco.com) has this classic in ready-to-drink format – on tap ($12).

Parkdale’s Chantecler (1320 Queen West, 416-628-3586, restaurantchantecler.ca) serves a beefier version of the Corpse Reviver #2, using Grand Marnier in place of the usual Cointreau ($11). If you ask nicely, co-owner and barman Jacob Wharton-Shukster might just substitute Cocchi Americano for Lillet.

Nestled in the village, Smith (553 Church, 416-926-2501, 553church.com) mixes a slightly lighter (but still boozy) formula Numero Dos (gin, Lillet Blanc, Cointreau, fresh lemon, $12) rinsed with pastis over absinthe.

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