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Food & Drink

Sukhothai

SUKHOTHAI 274A Parliament, at Dundas, 416-913-8846, sukhothaifood.com. Rating: NNN


The Hours: Monday to Saturday 11:30 am to 2:30 pm and 5 to 10 pm. Closed Sunday, some holidays.

The Minimum: $20

The Order: Sukhothai pad thai ($11.25), khao soi ($10.25) and a Sukhothai salad ($5)

The Damage: $30.34 + $3 delivery + 5 cents for the plastic bag = $33.39

The Wait (ETA vs Reality): 75 minutes/75 minutes

The Haul: This tiny Regent Park hole-in-the-wall must be rushed off its feet. It takes more than 90 minutes for someone to answer the phone, and even then, judging by the kitchen cacophony in the background, the place must be complete chaos. Nothing new, then.

The signature noodles are not as saucy or nearly as spicy when ordered medium-hot as they are at sister resto Khao San Road, its shredded chicken breast appropriately moist, the peanuts adding crunch. Khao soi is just as we remember, a clash of slippery linguine, tender chicken and creamy coconut milk dressed with fried noodles. Pure comfort food. Since the cassava cake seems to be sold out, we go with the house mango salad with sweet red peppers for a sugary finish.

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