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Food & Drink

Akrams bounces back

Akram’s Shoppe (191 Baldwin, at Kensington, 647-351-3116) has finally re-opened.

It wasn’t supposed to take this long. Thirty-three months ago, the popular Kensington take-away closed for renovations. Owner Akram Dow figured the work would take two weeks. But as construction began, Dow discovered that the 100 year-old building was literally falling apart.

“We decided to start from scratch and demolish the building right down to the foundation,” says Dow.

Akram’s re-opened a week ago. The new version is far grander than the old, with a few tables in a large floor-to-glass window by the door and, up a few stairs, a much more expansive take-out area than before as well as those familiar shelves of instant-party Middle Eastern flatbreads, pickles and spreads.

His famous falafel ($2.99) are just as we remember, a signature mix of fava, mung and soy beans – chickpeas are “too gassy” apparently – dressed with kick-ass hot sauce and made fresh-to-order on optional whole wheat pita. Why, Dow now even has an employee who’s job it is to just operate the deep-fryer. No microwave here!

Business is booming. Here it is late Sunday afternoon and there’s a lineup. Back in the old days – three years ago – the Market would be locked up tighter than a drum. Now, it’s the busiest day of the week.

“The neighbourhood has changed,” says Dow keeping his eye on the lineup. “There’s lots of people walking around now and they’re looking for something to eat.”

Akram’s Shoppe is open Monday to Saturday 10 am to 11 pm, and Sunday noon to 11 pm.[rssbreak]

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