720 Queen West, 416-504-1992, and others, terroni.com
Though some say Cosimo Mammoliti has lost the pizza war to Libretto, his string of rustic trats - including one in trendy West Hollywood - must be doing something right to be named best all-round Italian. We're guessing it likely has something to do with boisterous rooms, speedy service and old-school pastas like papardelle with spicy house-made sausage and cavatelli with smoked swordfish, even if he won't allow you to put cheese on the latter. Solution: BYOP - bring your own Parmesan!
1288 Dundas West, 416-534-1200, sociale.ca