Rating: NNNNN
Batifole
744 Gerrard E, at Howland, 416-462-9965. Not only is former Sassafraz chef Jean-Jacques Texier’s 30-seat east-side boîte the best French resto in Chinatown East, but it’s quite possibly the best in town as well. The reason? An informal setting, a surprisingly deep wine cellar, and all starters go for $8, mains $18, and à la carte sides $6! Best: from a seasonal card, escargot fricassee with chef’s father’s secret sauce chicken liver brûlé with sour berry ’n’ onion preserve entrees like pan-fried Provimi veal liver with caramelized onions deglazed with Banyuls vinegar slow-roasted confit of pork shank with natural jus and Emmenthal white bean cassoulet with duck confit, sausage and crispy pork belly hand-chopped horse sirloin tartare on the side, chunky pommes frites with tarragon mayo. Complete dinners for $50 per person, including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Average main $18. Open for dinner Wednesday to Monday 6 to 10:30 pm. Closed Tuesday. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN
Delux
92 Ossington, at Humbert, 416-537-0134. Sure, owner/chef Corinna Mozo’s charming west-side resto’s booths may be a little cramped, the lighting a bit dim and the buzz of the crowd often too loud. But when her food’s this good – comfort food classics with a slight Cuban accent – what’s a little bother? Best: organic field greens and baby beet in tangy lemon vinaigrette topped with walnut-crusted chèvre grilled Cubano sandwiches with roasted pork loin, sliced deli ham and gooey Gruyère, sided with chunky frites Pernod-splashed bouillabaise with butterflied shrimp, mussels, clams and monkfish served with grilled Cuban bread and fiery red rouille to finish, free-form apple gallette with whipped Chantilly cream and spidery caramel brittle. Complete dinners for $50 per person, including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Average main $20. Open for dinner Tuesday to Thursday 6 to 10:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 6 to 11 pm, Sunday 6 to 10:30 pm. Closed Monday, holidays. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNNN
Edward Levesque’s Kitchen
1290 Queen E, at Hastings, 416-465-3600. Chef Levesque’s converted greasy spoon has been wowing local foodies since it launched in 2003, long before Leslieville was a trendy dining destination. Uninviting from the street, this spacious room’s retro decor mirrors a menu of modern comfort food that often employs homegrown organic veggies. Best: from a seasonal card, 12-ounce grilled Cumbrae naturally raised hanger steak sided with beer-battered onion rings braised oxtail gnocchi with double-smoked bacon at lunch and brunch, Montasio Frico, fried cheese pancake coupled with asparagus, poached egg and salad latkes topped with Kristapsons smoked salmon, sour cream and chives. Complete dinners for $60 per person (lunches/brunches $25), including all taxes, tip and a glass of plonk. Average main $24/$10. Open for lunch Thursday and Friday 11:30 am to 2:30 pm, dinner Tuesday to Sunday 5:30 to 10 pm. Brunch Saturday and Sunday 9 am to 3 pm, holiday Mondays 10 am to 3 pm. Closed Monday, some holidays. Licensed. Access: four steps at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN
Harbord Room
89 Harbord, at Spadina, 416-962-8989. With CVs that include the Drake and Scaramouche (owner/chef (Cory Vitiello), Czehoski (partner Dave Mitton and designer Bred Denton) and Niagara Street Café (sommelier Anton Potvin), a late-night menu and a bar that stays open till 2 am, is it any wonder this 35-seat supper club rocks till closing time seven nights a week? Patio coming soon! Best: pan-roasted lamb in citrusy olive tapenade sided with braised Swiss chard and buttery cauliflower potato purée the 7-ounce house burger on eggy Fred’s bun topped with sharp cheddar, sided with skin-on fries, house-made ketchup and Asian arugula slaw in tarragon sherry vinaigrette calamari, clams and chorizo in stewed tomato, fresh basil and green olives key lime tart in chocolate graham cracker crust with coconut ice cream. Complete dinners for $55 per person, including all taxes, tip and a pint of micro-brew. Average main $22. Open nightly 6 pm to close. Licensed. Access: three steps at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN
Picnic
2411 Yonge, at Broadway, 416-487-8609. Unlike most theme restaurants, this trendy beanery delivers both concept – retro comfort food dishes served communally at picnic tables – and execution. Friendly servers, appropriate tunes and quite often tasty tapas-ish grub make Jennifer Cardella’s (Li’ly, Chinadoll) clambake an unmitigated blast. Best: Mom’s meat loaf with smashed potatoes old-school three-cheese macaroni ’n’ cheese with truffled crumb topping Yukon Gold frites dusted with sea salt Black Angus mini-burgers garnished with spicy ketchup and onion sprouts grilled peanut butter, Nutella and grape jam sandwiches to drink, Bloody Ceasars spiked with dill pickle juice. Complete meals for $40 (lunches/brunches $25), including all taxes, tip and a Red Stripe in a stubby. Average main $12. Open for dinner Tuesday to Thursday 6 to 11 pm, Friday and Saturday 6 pm to midnight, Sunday 6 to 11 pm brunch and lunch Saturday and Sunday from 11 am bar nightly till close. Closed Monday, holidays. Licensed. Access: two steps at door, washrooms. Rating: NNN
Seven Numbers
516 Eglinton W, at Headington, 416-322-5183. Rosa and Vito Marinuzzi’s boisterous Italian trat returns to its original nabe complete with intentionally cheap decor (burlap on communal tables, stacking chairs) and a wine list scribbled on scrap paper. Other locations: 307 Danforth, at Bowden, 416-469-5183. Best: constantly changing lineup starts with seasonal dishes like grilled organic red peppers with organic Ontario goat cheese and arugula, or organic spinach salad laced with Gorgonzola and walnuts house lasagna with veal and mozzarella tapas-sized à la carte mains like veal scallopini with mushroom braised osso bucco or lamb shank with potatoes ’n’ peas sides such as melt-in-your-mouth breaded eggplant stuffed with spinach and cheese, or smoky fire-roasted rapini at dessert, Tony’s cannoli. Complete dinners for $40 per person, including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Average main $10. Open for dinner Tuesday to Saturday 5 to 11 pm, Sunday 5 to 10 pm. Closed Monday. Licensed. Cash only. Access: barrier-free, washrooms in basement (Eglinton) barrier-free (Danforth). Rating: NNNN
Universal Grill
1071 Shaw, at Dupont, 416-588-5928. Long-running deco diner dishes out contemporary grub in nostalgic digs, a retrofitted soda fountain with swivel-able stools, comfy wooden booths and film noir venetian blinds. Every Friday starting June 20 through the end of August, jerk chicken and Indo-rubbed ribs sided with yam frites, coleslaw and sufferin’ succotash goes for only $16, while margaritas are six bucks! Best: seasonal soups like creamy saffron-scented cauliflower purée or tomato with roasted garlic and tarragon crusty polenta with oyster mushroom, roasted tomato, capers and chèvre rosemary roast chicken with home-style gravy and seriously scalloped potatoes at brunch, latkes with salmon gravlax, capers and designer greens Tex Mex-esque huevos rancheros with grilled chorizo. Complete dinners for $55 per person (brunches $25), including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Average main $22/$10. Open for dinner Tuesday to Sunday 5 to 10:30 pm. Brunch Saturday and Sunday 10:30 am to 2:30 pm. Closed Monday. Licensed. Access: two steps at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN
Yasi’s Place
299 Wallace, at Symington, 416-536-9888. Yasemin Zorlutuna’s upper west side luncheonette-slash-corner-store retains the room’s original’s funky fittings and adds a health-conscious card to the retro digs. Kids’ menu, too. Bonus: come summer, the patio becomes a community garden. Best: from a mostly locally sourced lineup, grilled cheese sandwiches on Ace multigrain like cheddar with sun-dried tomato, caramelized onion and baby spinach daily soups like vegan potato and spinach with house-baked cornbread at weekend brunch, Turkish breakfast for two or more of warm sesame bagels topped with optional feta, labne cream cheese or chèvre, as well as olives, tomato, avocado spread, Turkish sausage, house-made tempeh sausage and/or Turkish jam to finish, spelt chocolate brownies. Complete meals for $20 per person, including all taxes, tip and a coffee. Average main $9. Open Monday to Friday 8 am to 3 pm brunch Saturday, Sunday 10 am to 4 pm, and Monday. Unlicensed. Access: barrier-free, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN
