a few years back, when charming Jules (147 Spadina, 416-348-8886) first came on the scene, it was a runaway success, with long lineups every lunch. The feeding frenzy may have cooled -- it's near empty when I visit for a Monday lunch -- but the simple yet classic gallic grub still stands up. Cookbook-correct, the mussels steamed in white wine ($10.95) are easily the plumpest and sweetest I meet. Two dozen come traditionally in the double bowl alongside a plate of superb, lightly salted golden frites and salad in lemony vinaigrette.
Is it churlish to complain that there's almost two cups of lemony soup thick with al dente onion left over when a reduced pool of more intense broth would make Jules's jewels our winner? Didn't think so.