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Food & Drink

Dumpling Dish

Hole-in-the-wall eateries didn’t come any more off-the-beaten-track than Mother’s Dumplings – until last week, anyway. But a move from its obscure basement on Huron to high-profile digs close to U of T (421 Spadina, at College, 416-217-2008, mothersdumplings.com) brings the modest northern Chinese café an entirely new audience, with Caplansky-style lineups at lunch and dinner even though the room is three times the size of the original.

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“We’re selling out of dumplings every day,” says Mother’s owner/chef, Zhen Feng. “We can barely keep up.”

Feng also adds that her labour-intensive hand-pulled Da-Lu noodles are temporarily unavailable.

“Once we’re up and running, they’ll be back.”

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