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Pizza
1. Pizzeria Libretto
221 Ossington, at Dundas W, 416-532-8000, pizzerialibretto.com. Now that Rocco Agostino and Max Rimaldi’s celebrated Ossington hangout does lunch, snagging a table at Toronto’s best pizza parlour just got that much easier. Don’t tell anyone that a three-course salad-pizza-dessert prix fixe goes for $15 then, or you’ll never get in. New: pizza du jour – truffle paste, potato and local mascarpone Mondays, say. And, no, Libretto doesn’t deliver. Best: beautifully blistered Neapolitan-style thin-crusted pies dressed with Pingue prosciutto, arugula, heirloom tomato and garlic duck confit with caramelized pear and minimal cheese definitive Margheritas with San Marzano tomato sauce, fior di latte mozzarella and oven-crisped basil leaves to start, buttermilk-battered calamari with nutty chipotle Romesco sauce to finish, lemony panna cotta with blueberry coulis. Complete dinners for $45 per person (lunches $30), including all taxes, tip and a tumbler of Chianti. Average main $15. Open Monday to Saturday noon to 11 pm, Sunday 4 to 11 pm. No reservations. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNNN
2. Marcello’s
1163 St Clair W, at Dufferin, 416-656-6159, marcellospizzeria.com. Though it’s rarely mentioned in the endless Terroni vs Libretto pizza debate, this family-run family-style trat bakes a thin-crusted pie their equal. Substantial salads, no-nonsense grills and customizable pastas, too. Takeout, but no delivery. Also: 3175 Rutherford, at Jane, 905-532-0184. Best: from the wood-burning oven, the Compagniola, a 12-inch thinly crusted pie layered with spicy sausage, grilled eggplant, roasted red peppers, oodles of mozzarella and house tomato sauce mains like French-cut veal chops in green peppercorn marsala starters of Stracciatella Fiorentina soup swirled with tomato and spinach on the side, mixed greens tossed with peppers, artichoke and shaved Asiago in balsamic vinaigrette. Complete meals for $45 per person (lunches $30), including all taxes, tip and a glass of vino. Average main $17. Open Monday to Wednesday 11:30 am to 10:30 pm, Thursday to Saturday 11:30 am to 11 pm, Sunday 1 to 10:30 pm. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN
3. Gerrard Spaghetti & Pizza
1528 Danforth, at Rhodes, 416-463-7792. Sure, laugh at this family-run 40-year-old pizza ‘n’ pasta parlour’s 70s decor – net curtains, maps on the wall, TV over the bar – but there’s nothing funny about its excellent pies. One of Toronto’s oldest pizzerias, it was originally located on Gerrard – hence the handle. And, no, they don’t deliver. Best: the skinny-crusted Ricardo with roasted sweet red pepper, lightly brushed tomato sauce, quartered button mushrooms, sun-dried tomato, mozzarella, crumbled blue cheese and fresh basil the Nancy with nutty basil pesto, mild chèvre, fior di latte and sliced Yukon Gold potato to take home, explosive bottled home-grown hot peppers in garlicky olive oil. Complete dinners for $35 per person, including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Average main $12. Open Monday 4 to 11 pm, Tuesday to Thursday 11:30 am to 11 pm, Friday 11:30 am to midnight, Saturday 4 pm to midnight. Closed Sunday, holidays. Licensed. Access: barrier-free, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN
4. Pizza Gigi
189 Harbord, at Borden, 416-535-4444. This bare-bones takeout and delivery-only pizzeria couldn’t get any more trad, Dad, if it tried, dishing up authentic old-school pizzas with not-too-thick crusts and first-rate sloppy toppings since the 60s. If you’re looking for thin cracker crusts topped with arugula, try Terroni. Best: the Super Special, a medium-crusted pie heavy with traditional pepperoni, bacon, mushrooms, green pepper and onions unashamedly retro, the tiki-tastic Hawaiian with pineapple chunks and ham on a bed of double mozzarella from a lineup of more than a dozen slices, veggie-friendly spinach with feta, parmigiano, ricotta and mozzarella, or eggplant, red pepper, sun-dried tomato and roasted garlic. Complete meals for $20 per person, including all taxes, tip and a Brio. Open daily 4 pm to 4 am. Unlicensed. Cash only. Delivery. Access: four steps at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN
5. Terroni
720 Queen W, at Claremont, 416-504-0320, terroni.ca. Started as a Queen West version of Bar Italia back in 92, this rustic southern Italian enoteca has grown into Toronto’s most successful string of pizzerias. Why, there’s even one in West Hollywood. And while we love the buzz of the Courthouse, we always come back to the original to truly taste la dolce vita. Also: 57 Adelaide E, at Toronto, 416-203-3093 1 Balmoral, at Yonge, 416-925-4020. Best: pastas like house-made papardelle topped with crumbled sausage, wild mushrooms and garden peas secondi like house-stuffed veal sausage with grilled polenta and sautéed rapini the pizza? you decide: 12-inch uncut thin-crusted pies artfully decorated with minimal sauce and cheese, or barely there cracker crusts with the occasional topping? Whatever you do, don’t ask for a substitution or a knife. Complete dinners for $40 per person (lunches $25), including all taxes, tip and a glass of featured wine. Average main $16/$10. Open daily 9 am to 11 pm. No reservations. Licensed. Access: barrier-free. Rating: NNN
