Rating: NNNN
MEL’S MONTREAL DELICATESSEN (440 Bloor West, at Howland, 416-966-8881) As close to authentic Montreal-style smoked meat as you’re going to find in Toronto at an extremely bright family-style deli that’s open 24/7. Note: all smoked meat available in four grades – lean, medium, medium fat and downright fat. Best: massive half-pounder Montreal smoked meat sandwiches on rye with mustard plus a side of crunchy coleslaw and a quartered dill pickle house-made beef chopped liver with caramelized onion, hard-boiled egg and drippings of chicken fat creamy potato salad smoked-meat poutine with gravy and melted cheddar curds. Complete meals for $20 per person ($15 at lunch), including all taxes, tip and a domestic beer. Open 24/7. Licensed. Access: 2-inch step at door washrooms barrier-free. Rating: NNNN
