ONE OF A KIND 746 Queen W, at Niagara, 416-203-2229, oneofakindpasta.com. Rating: NNN
The Hours: Nightly 5 to 11 pm. Closed holidays.
The Minimum: $15
The Order: Duet pasta, meat lasagna (both $9.95), side of meatballs ($6.95) and a small Caesar salad ($5)
The Damage: $36.65 + $5 delivery ($3 in the immediate area) = $41.65
The Wait (ETA vs Reality): 60 minutes/35 minutes
The Haul: This long-running pasta parlour gets its rep for owner/chef Raymond To's innovative noodles, amply plated combos like his al dente Duet of jalapeño and basil linguine in tomato sauce tossed with bits of red pepper, broccoli, sweet Italian sausage and great whacks of boneless chicken breast. Shame the bird's stone cold, though that's nothing a quick nuke in the microwave can't fix.
Things heat up with a very cheesy lasagna nipped with nutmeg and a basic-if-plentiful anchovy-free Caesar, the rudimentary meatballs in house sauce the only disappointment.