Around the corner and up the block, the Dumpling House (328 Spadina, at Glen Baillie, 416-596-8898) specializes in gao, wonton wrappers stuffed with mini meatballs. The House offers 15 types of dumplings, including standard pork and shrimp combos as well as fantastic lamb ($3.99 for six/$6.59 a dozen), chopped spinach 'n' vermicelli and delicious fennel with minced pork (both $3.59/$5.99).Dumplings come steamed or fried gyoza-style and get sided with challenging stuff like soya intestine ($5.25, and 100-per-cent tofu), smashed garlic with skinned English cuke or chewy sliced pig ears ($3.59, pork). Stay clear of Saucy Noodles ($4.95) -- pasta in mystery gloop. And Szechuan eggplant ($6.59) won't make anyone miss Peter's Chung King.
Better yet, take home a dozen frozen dumplings -- Chinese Traditional Buns sell theirs frozen, as well -- and throw a do-it-yourself dim sum spread (see Fresh Dish).