Rating: NNNNN
The NOW Test Kitchen turns its critical eye to everyone’s favourite late-night nosh, the roti. The results surprised even us – some new finds impressed and a few old standbys let us down. Pass the Bromo and let the culinary controversy begin!
1. WHO/WHERE: GANDHI, 554 Queen West, at Bathurst, 416-504-8155
VIBE: Quick lunch counter
FILLING: Mostly chicken in Indian-style sauce, a few slivered potato slices, spectacular near-naan house-made wrappers
HEAT: Pre-sauced, builds to blast-off
WEIGHT: 19 ounces
PRICE: $6.95
RATING: NNNNN
2. WHO/WHERE: BACCHUS, 1376 Queen West, at Brock, 416-532-8191
VIBE: Busy caf&eactue with table service, $3 beer
FILLING: Lots of moist bird with little filler
HEAT: Pre-sauced, explosive
WEIGHT: 20 ounces
PRICE: $7.25
RATING: NNNN
3. WHO/WHERE: RITZ ISLAND, 177 Baldwin, at Kensington, 416-963-1414
VIBE: Laid-back Kensington Market scene
FILLING: Juicy stewed chicken, minimal veggie filler
HEAT: Add-your-own fruity house sauce
WEIGHT: 19 ounces
PRICE: $5.95?
RATING: NNNN
4. WHO/WHERE: ISLAND THYME, 872 Bathurst, at London, 416-538-9729 (see review, page XX)
VIBE: Cozy pastel-hued caf&eactue
FILLING: All moist breast meat and firm cubed spuds, light curried gravy, dhalpoori wrap
HEAT: Add-your-own bottled mango
WEIGHT: 20 ounces
PRICE: $6
RATING: NNNN
5. WHO/WHERE: CARIBBEAN ROTI PALACE, 744 Bathurst, at Bloor West, 416-533-7466
VIBE: Friendly fast food court
FILLING: White breast, soft potato, puréed channa, random red pepper threads, pale dhalpoori wrap
HEAT: Pre-sauced, medium burn
WEIGHT: 16 ounces
PRICE: $6
RATING: NNN
6. WHO/WHERE: VENA, 646 Queen West, at Palmerston, 416-504-8485
VIBE: Lurid cartoon murals, cheap suds
FILLING: Upper thigh, spinach, chickpeas and potato in a glistening oil slick with sweet fluorescent sauce, very unique
HEAT: Add-your-own incendiary vinegar
WEIGHT: 25 ounces
PRICE: $7 including tax
RATING: NNN
7. WHO/WHERE: TARIN ROTI SHOP, 452 Gerrard East, at Sword, 416-963-9800
VIBE: Dilapidated lunch counter
FILLING: Made to order, 50 per cent dark meat, 50 per cent potato, tangy curried gravy, thick wrapper
HEAT: Pre-sauced, zero firepower
WEIGHT: 23 ounces
PRICE: $4.99
RATING: NNN
8. WHO/WHERE: COCO BANANA, 1690 Danforth, at Woodington, 416-406-0534
VIBE: Ultra-funky JA party palace
FILLING: Lots of shredded dark meat, not entirely bone-free, mixed with bits of carrot ‘n’ potato, dhalpoori wrap
HEAT: None, but not wimpy
WEIGHT: 16 ounces
PRICE: $5.99 (small)
RATING: NNN (loses an N for bones but gets it back for atmosphere)
9. WHO/WHERE: ALI’S WEST INDIAN ROTI SHOP, 1446 Queen West, at Close, 416-532-7701
VIBE: Caribbean McDonald’s
FILLING: Boneless but not cartilage-free, large cubed potatos, mashed channa, random red pepper strands
HEAT: Pre-sauced, undetectable
WEIGHT: 20 ounces
PRICE: $6.25
RATING: NN
10. WHO/WHERE: Coconut Grove, 183 Dundas West, at Elizabeth, 416-348-8887
VIBE: Friendly, crowded take-away with a few tables
FILLING: Thigh meat, potato-and-chickpea mush, cheap wrapper
HEAT: Pre-sauced, unnoticeable
WEIGHT: 22 ounces
PRICE: $4.99
RATING: NN
11. WHO/WHERE: ISLAND FOODS, 275 Dundas West, at McCaul, 416-599-9339
VIBE: Anonymous shopping mall
FILLING: More veggies than dry bird, aromatic curried gravy, occasional greenery
HEAT: Pre-sauced, gutless
WEIGHT: 16 ounces
PRICE: $5.65
RATING: NN