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Food & Drink

Rating T.O.’s roti

Rating: NNNNN


The NOW Test Kitchen turns its critical eye to everyone’s favourite late-night nosh, the roti. The results surprised even us – some new finds impressed and a few old standbys let us down. Pass the Bromo and let the culinary controversy begin!

1. WHO/WHERE: GANDHI, 554 Queen West, at Bathurst, 416-504-8155

VIBE: Quick lunch counter

FILLING: Mostly chicken in Indian-style sauce, a few slivered potato slices, spectacular near-naan house-made wrappers

HEAT: Pre-sauced, builds to blast-off

WEIGHT: 19 ounces

PRICE: $6.95

RATING: NNNNN

2. WHO/WHERE: BACCHUS, 1376 Queen West, at Brock, 416-532-8191

VIBE: Busy caf&eactue with table service, $3 beer

FILLING: Lots of moist bird with little filler

HEAT: Pre-sauced, explosive

WEIGHT: 20 ounces

PRICE: $7.25

RATING: NNNN

3. WHO/WHERE: RITZ ISLAND, 177 Baldwin, at Kensington, 416-963-1414

VIBE: Laid-back Kensington Market scene

FILLING: Juicy stewed chicken, minimal veggie filler

HEAT: Add-your-own fruity house sauce

WEIGHT: 19 ounces

PRICE: $5.95?

RATING: NNNN

4. WHO/WHERE: ISLAND THYME, 872 Bathurst, at London, 416-538-9729 (see review, page XX)

VIBE: Cozy pastel-hued caf&eactue

FILLING: All moist breast meat and firm cubed spuds, light curried gravy, dhalpoori wrap

HEAT: Add-your-own bottled mango

WEIGHT: 20 ounces

PRICE: $6

RATING: NNNN

5. WHO/WHERE: CARIBBEAN ROTI PALACE, 744 Bathurst, at Bloor West, 416-533-7466

VIBE: Friendly fast food court

FILLING: White breast, soft potato, puréed channa, random red pepper threads, pale dhalpoori wrap

HEAT: Pre-sauced, medium burn

WEIGHT: 16 ounces

PRICE: $6

RATING: NNN

6. WHO/WHERE: VENA, 646 Queen West, at Palmerston, 416-504-8485

VIBE: Lurid cartoon murals, cheap suds

FILLING: Upper thigh, spinach, chickpeas and potato in a glistening oil slick with sweet fluorescent sauce, very unique

HEAT: Add-your-own incendiary vinegar

WEIGHT: 25 ounces

PRICE: $7 including tax

RATING: NNN

7. WHO/WHERE: TARIN ROTI SHOP, 452 Gerrard East, at Sword, 416-963-9800

VIBE: Dilapidated lunch counter

FILLING: Made to order, 50 per cent dark meat, 50 per cent potato, tangy curried gravy, thick wrapper

HEAT: Pre-sauced, zero firepower

WEIGHT: 23 ounces

PRICE: $4.99

RATING: NNN

8. WHO/WHERE: COCO BANANA, 1690 Danforth, at Woodington, 416-406-0534

VIBE: Ultra-funky JA party palace

FILLING: Lots of shredded dark meat, not entirely bone-free, mixed with bits of carrot ‘n’ potato, dhalpoori wrap

HEAT: None, but not wimpy

WEIGHT: 16 ounces

PRICE: $5.99 (small)

RATING: NNN (loses an N for bones but gets it back for atmosphere)

9. WHO/WHERE: ALI’S WEST INDIAN ROTI SHOP, 1446 Queen West, at Close, 416-532-7701

VIBE: Caribbean McDonald’s

FILLING: Boneless but not cartilage-free, large cubed potatos, mashed channa, random red pepper strands

HEAT: Pre-sauced, undetectable

WEIGHT: 20 ounces

PRICE: $6.25

RATING: NN

10. WHO/WHERE: Coconut Grove, 183 Dundas West, at Elizabeth, 416-348-8887

VIBE: Friendly, crowded take-away with a few tables

FILLING: Thigh meat, potato-and-chickpea mush, cheap wrapper

HEAT: Pre-sauced, unnoticeable

WEIGHT: 22 ounces

PRICE: $4.99

RATING: NN

11. WHO/WHERE: ISLAND FOODS, 275 Dundas West, at McCaul, 416-599-9339

VIBE: Anonymous shopping mall

FILLING: More veggies than dry bird, aromatic curried gravy, occasional greenery

HEAT: Pre-sauced, gutless

WEIGHT: 16 ounces

PRICE: $5.65

RATING: NN

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