A+ Appetite for discussion
The seedy underbelly of Toronto’s restaurant industry was thrust into the spotlight this year. Restaurants complicit in covering up sexual assaults or committing labour violations were named and shamed in the press, industry issues (from skimpy uniforms to gruelling hours to tipping) were examined in public, and the Kitchen Bitches conference sparked discussion about protecting marginalized food industry workers. While the battle is far from over, it’s heartening to see folks standing up against the status quo.
A The return of the tasting menu
The previously stuffy tradition of the chef’s table got some vibrant new twists at Loka and Alo, while the Japanese tradition of omakase menus continued to spread its roots. It’s not the most democratic way to set up your restaurant (really, how often can the average Torontonian drop $70-plus on a meal?), but it’s also the best way to experience some of the city’s most breathtaking culinary moments.
B+ Microbrews a brewin’
Restaurant/music venue/microbrewery Burdock warmed its way into the hearts of craft beer lovers with its proprietary beers, Habits Gastropub reinvented itself as a beer-centric spot called Folly, Bar Hop’s newest outpost on Peter left plenty of space for forthcoming brewing operations of its own, and small-time craft brewers continue to proliferate.
B+ All the rage Asian
It began with Uncle Tetsu’s cult-favourite Japanese cheesecakes in February (10 months after opening day, you might still see a line out the door) and continued with beloved Taiwanese chain Hot-Star Large Fried Chicken this fall. Look for Jollibee, the Philippines’ favourite burger joint, to land in 2016.
B Hotel kitchens stepping it up
Daniel Boulud’s Cafe Boulud got a revamp that finally makes it worthy of the Four Seasons, Parcae breathed new life into the kitchen of the recently reopened Templar Hotel, and even SOCO Kitchen & Bar (in the new CN Tower-adjacent Delta Toronto) turns out some tasty snacks and a surprisingly solid plate of pasta.
C Brand deals for everyone!
Sure, there’s no shame in chefs using their hard-earned reputations to make a little extra dough, especially if it’s a partnership that creates something truly cool (think Matty Matheson’s pop-up dinner with Bacardi this year). But I still feel a pang of sadness when I think about megachef David Chang shilling for President’s Choice.
Steven Davey
Momofuku, Daishō
D+ Fried chicken everywhere
Yes, it’s a crowd-pleaser. And yes, when done well it’s one of the most sublime entities in the junk food pantheon. (I’m partial to Bar Fancy’s.) But do we really need to have it on every menu in town? I’m sorry I complained when kale salads were everywhere, okay?
F Offensive social media posts
Caitlyn Jenner’s coming-out announcement brought out the worst of the restaurant industry as transphobic “jokes” appeared on the social media accounts of El Furniture Warehouse and Bill Hicks Bar. Not only are these kinds of remarks harmful and even dangerous to trans folks – they make for terrible PR. Maybe just stick to plugging your food and drinks next time?
