Rating: NNN
ROL SAN (323 Spadina, at Dundas, 416-977-1128) Retro Cantonese cuisine in a pleasant space a notch above the usual for the area. In the rear, past an open kitchen, a second room reminiscent of a cheesy Hong Kong discotheque decked out with posters of Charlie Chaplin and Princess Di handles the overflow for weekend dim sum. Always packed expect a wait at the door. Best: steamed live sea bass in black-bean sauce minced pork with long beans dim sum like shrimp-and-chive crispy dumplings and multi-textured seafood har gow in briny broth. Complete dinners for $30 ($15 for daily dim sum brunch and lunch), including all taxes, tip and a Chinese beer. Open Monday to Thursday 10 am to 4 am, Friday 10 am to 5 am, Saturday 9 am to 5 am, Sunday 9 am to 4 am. Fully licensed. Access: barrier-free. Rating: NNN
323 Spadina, at Dundas, 416-977-1128
