Rating: NNN
sintra (588 College, at Euclid, 416-533-1106) Upscale Portuguese bistro on the College Cal-Ital strip. Fancy if somewhat dated digs provide a backdrop for expertly grilled seafood that needs more oomph. Despite a cellar holding over 150 vintages, few are available by the glass. Best: Coelho no Churrasco — marinated grilled rabbit sauced with Madeira and sided with a timbale of smashed kidney beans, smoky pork chorizo, collard greens and cornbread crumbs superb Atlantic salmon steamed in parchment with julienned veggies and slathered with coriander pesto butter well-spiced Sopa de Camarao — seafood broth with grilled shrimp, couscous and cornbread crouton. Complete dinners for $45 per person ($23 at lunch), including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine or a bottle of Portuguese beer. Open for lunch Tuesday to Friday 11 am to 3 pm, for dinner Sunday, Tuesday and Wednesday 5 to 10 pm, Thursday to Saturday 5 pm to midnight. Closed Monday. Fully licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN
