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Food & Drink

The new, re-established Peter Pan Bistro

Last spring the beloved Peter Pan Bistro closed its’ doors after being open for an incredible 37 years. Almost a full year since closing, new owners Chef Noah Goldberg, formerly of Lee’s and The Feasting Room, and his father Marty have brought it back to life with the utmost respect and care. Goldberg admires days of Peter Pan past and says this is truly a passion project and wishes to bring back the romance of dining. His goal is for people to have a multiple course meal and spend a meaningful couple of hours in the historic spot.

Similar to The Feasting Room, Goldberg’s food philosophy remains head-to-tail and, perhaps less buzzworthy, root-to-leaf. Most succinctly quantified, Goldberg describes his cuisine as “contemporary Canadiana,” yet strives to provide the diner with a unique experience in the form of a new ingredient or a specific flavour combination.

The canapés on offer at last night’s media preview were a terrific example of Goldberg’s philosophy. Flatbread pizza with creamy bone marrow as a base topped with punchy and refreshing parsley, pommes dauphine drizzled with gravy and cheese to mimic poutine, gluttonous rice balls filled with candied bacon, a torched marshmallow stuffed with chocolate mousse and topped with crumbled graham crackers – perfect bites and flavours twisted slightly into something unique and exciting. Goldberg says the aforementioned will be on the new menu, but your options will also change frequently. 

The cocktail menu is succinct, planned by bar manager Josh Plout the signature drinks are well-balanced between spirit flavours, sweet, savoury and acidity, reflecting similar combinations from the menu. The ‘What’s Up Doc?’ features freshly pressed carrot and apple juice with celery bitters, tricking you into thinking you’re cleansing your body. Then, the elderflower liquor brings you down…to the bar. Plout insists diners ask him for his secret cocktail of the evening when visiting he’s more than happy to talk shop though hesitant to give away his tonic recipe. (Do not ask him where he sources his tree bark.)

Peter Pan is open Tuesday to Saturday, 6 pm – late. Reservations are accepted. See listing.

food@nowtoronto.com | @nowtoronto

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