603 King W, at Portland, 416-504-7867, susur.com. Toronto’s top chef, Susur Lee, hasn’t done hamburgers since his days back at the Peter Pan in the 80s. And what burgers they be: 8 ounces of minced Black Angus on a proverbial sesame seed bun, traditionally topped with lettuce and tomato as well as buttery avocado, miso mayo and stinky Danish blue cheese ($18). The fries are better left in the test tube, dusted with cardamom, sesame and paprika a la molecular ketchup. Give us classic frites (we’re sure the French-trained chef remembers how to make them) and a Susur-fied take on ketjap (with a signature East-West twist) and life would be perfect. Open for lunch Monday to Saturday 11:30 am to 2:30 pm, dinner 5:30 to 11:30 pm. Closed Sunday. Licensed. Access: two steps at door, washrooms in basement.
35 Elm, at Yonge, 647-347-2712, queenandbeaverpub.ca. Chef Andrew Carter’s house burger ($17), 6 grilled-to-order ounces of hand-cut marbelized Canadian beef laced with silken bone marrow, dressed with strong blue Stilton cheese and double-smoked bacon, and sided with house-made ketchup, house-pickled asparagus and chunky frites. Open for lunch Monday to Friday 11:30 am to 3 pm, dinner Monday to Saturday 5 to 11 pm, Sunday 5 to 10 pm. Brunch Saturday and Sunday 11 am to 3 pm, breakfast both days from 9 am in footie season. Bar till close. Licensed. Access: five steps at door, washrooms on second floor.
936 Queen W, at Shaw, 416-534-5244, oddfellows.ca. Currently 8 ounces of grilled-to-order ground venison shoulder on Fred’s Bakery brioche, chef Matty Matheson’s seasonal game burger ($22) comes garnished with cremini ‘n’ red wine ragout, house-cured smoked bacon, homemade relish, melted Emmental and leaf lettuce, a passel of skin-on Yukon Gold frites on the side. Open for dinner Tuesday to Saturday 6 to 11 pm. Brunch Saturday and Sunday 10 am to 3 pm. AYCE tacos Sunday from 6 pm. Bar nightly till 2 am. Closed Monday, some holidays. Licensed. Access: barrier-free.
180 Queen W, at Simcoe, 416-977-6400, notabenerestaurant.com. Named for ex-Splendido owner/chef David Lee’s wife, the Jennifer cheeseburger ($19) finds 8 ounces of naturally raise Cumbrae brisket on a grilled Epi Breads bun, layered with blue cheese and balsamic-caramelized onions, and paired with a bowl of crunchy house-made cornichons and optional five-N pommes frites dusted with shaved pecorino ($8). Open for lunch Monday to Friday 11 am to 2:30 pm, for dinner Monday to Saturday 5 to 11 pm. Closed Sunday, holidays. Licensed. Access: barrier-free.
66 Wellington W, at York, 416-777-1144, bymark.ca. Who says times are tough? Not the Bay Street gang chowing down on celebrity chef Mark Ewan’s landmark burger ($34.95), 8 ounces of hand-chopped Prime U.S. steak draped with meaty king mushrooms and melted Brie de Meaux cheese, a stack of beefy onion rings on the side. You want fries with that shake? That’ll be another seven bucks. Open Monday to Friday 11:30 am to 11 pm, dinner Saturday 5 to 11 pm, bar nightly to close. Closed Sunday. Licensed. Access: barrier-free.
70 Fraser, at Liberty, 416-588-0005, sbcto.com. Come patio weather, Brad Moore’s insanely popular Liberty Village lunch ‘n’ brunch spot triples in capacity, making it that much easier to get your hands on the ex-Xacutti chef’s Amigo burger ($14 with chili-peppered frites), 6 ounces of pink-centred organic beef with lemony guacamole, melted Monterrey Jack, caramelized onion and grilled tomato salsa. Open Monday to Friday 8 am to 4 pm, bakery and cocktails till 7 pm. Brunch Saturday and Sunday 9:30 am to 4 pm. Closed some holidays. No reservations. Licensed. Access: barrier-free.
699 St Clair W, at Christie, 416-658-9666, thestockyards.ca. Owner/pit boss Tom Davis won’t tell us what’s in his exceptionally meaty 6-ounce griddle-smashed burgers ($7) other than ground chuck and brisket, but we’re guessing mastodon. Open Tuesday to Friday 11:30 am to 9 pm, Saturday 11:30 am to 8 pm, Sunday 9 am to 8 pm. Brunch Sunday till 3 pm. Closed Monday, holidays. No reservations. Unlicensed. Access: steep ramp at door, washrooms on same floor.
143 Danforth, at Broadview, 416-463-3086, allens.to. Urban myth has it that the house burger at this long-running saloon is so special, only regulars know to order it because it’s not on the menu. But there it is in clear sight on the card right next to the Ulster fry-up, 4 hand-formed ounces of grilled-to-order grass-fed Angus sirloin ($9.25), though it’s suggested you “enquire of staff re permutations and combinations.” Open daily 11:30 am to midnight. Licensed.
482 Parliament, at Carlton, 647-344-5103, thegourmetburgerco.com. Of all the recent would-be burger franchises, only John Ward’s mini-chain has the goods to go all the way: the Aussie burger ($8.50), 6 ounces of aged lean never-frozen house-ground Canadian beef topped with bacon, lettuce, tomato, Hellman’s mayo, gooey cheddar, grilled pineapple, honey-poached beets and a runny fried egg. Also: 9 Charles West, at Yonge, 647-351-6408 2419 Yonge, at Roselawn, 647-349-6555. Open Sunday to Thursday 11 am to 10 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am to 11 pm. Closed some holidays. Unlicensed. Access: bump at door, no washrooms, counter seating.
354 Queen W, at Spadina, 416-792-7792, burgershoppe.com. Since launching his Burger Shoppe in Riverside a few years back, owner Saeed Mohamed has greatly improved the quality of his product. See it in his Stem Burger ($8.95), 6 ounces of cooked-to-order Rowe Farms organic ground beef topped with mesclun, tomato, meaty bacon and a runny over-easy egg on a grilled whole wheat bun sided with skinny skin-on fries. Open Monday to Saturday 8 am to 10 pm, Sunday 9 am to 10 pm. Licensed. Access: barrier-free, washrooms in basement, booth seating.
