Rating: NNNNN
Afro-Caribbean
ISLAND THYME 872 Bathurst, north of Bloor, 416-538-9729. This casual Island-stylee café welcomes with brightly coloured walls, black-and-white portraits of jazz greats and sprays of birds of paradise. Regulars chow down on slow-cooked young goat and simmered oxtail sided with fava beans, nutty rice ‘n’ peas and citrusy slaw. Everything’s made to order by charming owner chef Marcia Carby, so no worries for those not in a hurry. Vegetarian highlights: fabulous twice-cooked bistro-style shoestring sweet potato frites with tangy mango hot sauce first-rate potato ‘n’ chickpea channa dhalpoori roti Cantonese goes Caribe sweet bell-pepper, carrot and onion stir-fry with egg noodle vermicelli for dessert, better than Mom’s pineapple upside-down cake for later, take-home calaloo quiche. Complete meals for $12 per person, including all taxes, tip and a Ting. Open Monday to Wednesday noon to 8 pm, Thursday and Friday noon to 9 pm, Saturday 9 am to 9 pm. Closed Sunday and holidays. Unlicensed. Cash only. Access: four steps at door, another to washroom. Rating: NNNN
JAJA 858 Bloor West, at Roxton, 416-537-7334. Owner-chef Cherif Berrachedi sold La Forchetta, his Cal-Ital boîte on College, to open Toronto’s only Algerian eatery, a terrific take-away offering Mediterranean mains that combine Middle Eastern, Moroccan and Greek grub twisted by unique and often incendiary spicing. No mere falafel joint, carnivores can expect mains like super-moist slow-cooked chicken tagine with green olives in lemony jus over couscous or whole grilled sardines with tomato rice and tabbouleh. Vegetarian highlights: the delish North African all-day breakfast dish of mashed and grilled lemon-scented fava beans topped with sweet fried onion, fresh pulpy tomato and loadsa garlic for the sweet tooth, superb house-made baklava and other honey-drenched nutty pastries. Complete meals for $10 per person, including all taxes, tip and a mint tea. Open daily 10 am to midnight, except Friday 10 am to 1:30 pm and 2:30 pm to midnight. Unlicensed. Cash only. Access: two steps at door, four steps to washroom. Rating: NNN
Asian
BAN VANIPHA 638 Dundas West, at Denison, 416-340-0491. Almost doubled in size, this long-time Augusta home-style Thai and Laotian eatery moves around the corner to colourful digs just west of Chinatown. Pricier than similar spots, this busy yet calm room delivers superior ingredients with pan-Asian panache. Where else can you find Gai Hoey Bai Toey, garlic-marinated grilled chicken breast wrapped in pandan-leaf ribbons and sauced with soy, sesame oil and whiskey? Vegetarian highlights: Larp Hed, minced multiple mushrooms, fresh tofu, Thai chilies and rice powder in lime dressing Vientiane-style noodles with stir-fried veggies in yellow curry Som Tum salad, shredded green papaya with tomato and long green beans in garlic chili lime vinaigrette to finish, custardy crustless coconut pie riddled with pumpkin. Complete dinners for $35 per person ($20 lunch), including all taxes, tip and an imported beer. Open for lunch Monday to Friday 11:30 am to 3 pm, for dinner Monday to Wednesday 5 to 10 pm, Thursday to Saturday 5 to 11 pm. Closed Sunday, holidays. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNN
Chinese Traditional Buns 536 Dundas West, at Kensington, 416-299-9011. Featuring the street snacks of northeastern China, this subterranean spot offers explosive all-day eats that are more than quick pick-me-ups. Count on bare-bones decor, a few twinkling fairy lights and chef Linda Liu’n’s spectacular grub. Vegetarian highlight: although listed as a drink, think of jellied bean curd as an ethereal tofu soup slammed with your choice of chili oil, raw garlic, crunchy preserved vegetable pickle and fresh coriander leaf cold noodles lashed with nutty tahini-esque sesame paste, sweet black rice vinegar and crisp scallion rings sides like deceptive-looking assorted vegetables – cellophane thread, slivered carrot and daikon – in blow-your-head-off mustard oil or sweet-and-sour radish with Thai chilies. Complete meals for $7 per person, including all taxes and tip. Open daily 10 am to 10 pm. Unlicensed. Cash only. Access: 12 steps at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNNN
JEAN’S FINE FOODS 2326 Danforth, at Woodington, 416-422-0617. Hard-working chef Jean Seow and her equally industrious hubby, Harry Seow, don’t seem to know the meaning of retirement. Having shuttered their popular east-side spot a year ago to take life a little easier, the pair responsible for two of Toronto’s pioneering Thai-Malay eateries from the 80s – Rasa Sayang and Sawasdee – are back once again at this low-key homey storefront decked out in tropical plants that features the spice-tacular street eats of Singapore. Fear not, pyrophobes. Unless fired with hot sauce, most dishes come moderately spiced. Vegetarian highlights: deep-fried bean curd with chewy black Chinese mushrooms, broccoli and red pepper vegetarian spring rolls stuffed with carrot, cabbage, glass noodles and yellow split peas dunked in garlicky honey dip and intensified with slow-burn homemade hot sauce electric blue Asian eggplant scented with basil organic tofu in chili ginger for dessert, Jean’s fried bananas or black sticky rice in coconut cream to take home, Harry’s bottled in-house curry paste and powder. Complete meals for $20 per person, including all taxes and tip. Open daily 11 am to 11 pm. Licensed. Access: barrier-free. Rating: NNN
SALAD KING 335 Yonge, at Gould, 416-971-7041. Despite its handle, this eleganty overhauled pan-Asian pad thai peddlar offers more than just rabbit food. Gone is the cafeteria-style self-serve set-up. In its place, two table-serviced luxe rooms – all brushed chrome and dark wood accents – deliver deceptively mellow Thai fare that can pack a long-lingering afterburn. What they call medium-strength will cause unsuspecting diners to break out in a sweat. For days. Vegetarian highlights: Evil Jungle Prince, a blistering stir-fry of Asian eggplant, baby corn, snow peas ‘n’ carrots in lemon grass chili sauce silken cubes of deep-fried tofu with sweet peppers and Chinese ‘shrooms in coconutty tamarind sauce soft rice-paper-wrapped cold rolls stuffed with tart mango, pickled carrot, English cuke and sprouts with sweet nuac cham dip all-veggie Malay-style chop suey for dessert, fresh mango sticky rice. Complete dinners for $20 per person ($15 lunch), including all taxes, tip and an imported Thai beer. Open Monday to Friday 11 am to 9:30 pm, Saturday 11 am to 8 pm. Daily 10 per cent student discount 2 to 5 pm. Closed Sunday, holidays. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN
Afro-Caribbean
Jules 147 Spadina, at Queen West, 416-348-8886. Back when dinosaurs roamed Queen West – 1974 – real cave-people didn’n’t eat quiche. Since then, the francophone egg pie has come back in fashion and this terrific modern bistro makes the best version in town. Classic steamed mussels in white wine, and herb-dusted flank steak Bavette with stellar salt-dusted frites, too. Vegetarian highlights: classic thin-crusted quiche like chèvre with eggplant ratatouille, or sweet leek and caramelized onion creamy brie and asparagus wrapped in eggy crepes for dessert, house-baked Tarte Tatin, crème brûlée and gateau au chocolat. Complete meals for $25 per person, including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Open Monday to Friday 11:30 am to 9 pm, Saturday noon to 9 pm. Closed Sunday, holidays. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNNN
Red Tea Box 696 Queen West, at Euclid, 416-203-8882. As well as selling imported teas and exquisite Japanese laquerware, this gorgeous home-decor boutique has become downtown’n’s most elegant spot for superb Japanese-Indian lunches. Take traditional afternoon tea on the terrace or lounge in the breezy coach house over remarkable fusion plates like honey-drizzled roast chicken stuffed with figs. Warning: only eight tables for two and no reservations, so join the queue. Vegetarian highlights: lacquered bento boxes laden with exotica like saffron-buttered pumpkin salad of Asian pear with roasted green peas and Gorgonzola cauliflower and apple in spicy raisin dressing couscous with preserved lemon and olive slow-roasted caramelized radicchio salad in mustardy maple vinaigrette garnished with cumin-lashed pumpkin-seed brittle to follow, intense chocolate brownies and apricot ‘n’ green tea frangipani. Complete lunches for $25 per person, including all taxes, tip and tea. Open Monday, Wednesday and Thursday 10 am to 6 pm, Friday and Saturday 10 am to 7 pm, Sunday noon to 5 pm. Closed Tuesday, holidays. Unlicensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms on same floor, four steps to terrace, and another four steps to coach house. Rating: NNNNN
SAVING GRACE 907 Dundas West, at Bellwoods, 416-703-7368. This deceptively anonymous space – white-on-white walls, minimalist decor, 20 seats tops – has revitalized one of downtown’s dreariest strips. Now serving a tapas-style dinner menu, it continues to offer stylish soups, salads and sandwiches as well as wallet-friendly, lineup-inducing weekend brunch. Vegetarian highlights: legendary corn cakes with tart mango salsa rosemary-roasted potatoes with coriander aioli grilled sandwiches like baguette with melting brie, pear and walnut or whole wheat raisin bread with Gruyère, tomato and arugula sided with honey-basil-dressed greens at brunch, caramelized banana French toast with actual maple syrup. Complete meals for $20 per person, including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Open Tuesday to Friday 9 am to 3 pm. Brunch Saturday and Sunday 9 am to 3 pm. Closed Monday, first Tuesday of every month, holidays. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms upstairs. Rating: NNN
Edward Levesque’s Kitchen 1290 Queen East, at Hastings, 416-465-3600. Though it looks small from the street, this converted diner opens to a larger, funkier space in back. Owner/chef Edward Levesque’n’s lineup has a retro feel, too, updating classic comfort food with a contemporary Asian spin. At lunch, find updated diner fare and at dinner reasonably priced mains have made this beguiling boîte a neighbourhood hit. Expect a queue for weekend brunch. Vegetarian highlights: although the menu changes monthly, expect dishes like simple but superb house-made agnolotti stuffed with ricotta and minced Swiss chard in beurre noisette tandoori tofu plated with herbed chickpea and apricot salad, mango chutney and pappadum a raw salad of Fuji apple, beet, endive, Danish blue and walnut in walnut oil vinaigrette during the day, rosemary risotto cakes with greens in house miso dressing. Complete meals for $35 per person ($15 at lunch, $18 at brunch), including all taxes, tip and a glass of plonk. Open for lunch Tuesday to Friday 9 am to 4 pm, for dinner Wednesday to Saturday 6 to 10 pm. Brunch Saturday and Sunday 9 am to 3 pm. Licensed. Access: four steps at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN
Niagara Street Café 169 Niagara, at Wellington West, 416-703-4222. First-time owners and chefs Deborah Nicholas and daughter Jen Johnson deliver the type of spot everyone wishes were just down the street. Even if it is around the corner from an abattoir. Mismatched chairs, bronze-tinted mirrors on butterscotch walls and fugly 70s wallpaper give this shabby-chic spot a retro vibe, but the kitchen’s current and mostly organic. Vegetarian highlights: super soups like pale green parsnip and apple or cinammon-scented sweet potato purée squiggled with house-made crème fraîche and sprigged with baby arugula melted chèvre-topped blini-esque red pepper pancakes on citrusy mesclun tasty house-made cornbread and scones at brunch, omelettes like Stilton with pear and watercress, or whipped-cream-topped French Toast Fantastique. Complete meals for $50 per person ($22 at brunch), including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine or an organic beer. Open for dinner Wednesday to Saturday 6 to 11 pm. Brunch Saturday and Sunday 11 am to 3 pm. Closed Monday, Tuesday. Licensed. Access: two steps at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNN
Contemporary
Gio Rana’s 1220 Queen East, at Leslie, 416-469-5225. The nose returns to its roots on the east side. Old-school Italia served tapas-style in a gutted bank draws starving locals and hipsters alike. If you fancy Gio’s and Five Doors on Yonge, you know the scene: loud crowd! Vegetarian highlights: crepe-like Crispelle folded over sweet butternut squash and creamy mascarpone Eggplant “Palmudgiane” – layered breaded ‘plant sauced in chunky tomato pulp baked polenta with sun-dried tomato, chèvre and basil purée comforting scalloped sweet potato flan thyme-infused risotto with fresh corn niblets for dessert, subtle Panna Cotta custard blasted with smoky caramel. Complete dinners for $40 per person, including all taxes, tip and a glass of Chianti. Open for dinner Sunday to Thursday 6 to 11 pm, Friday and Saturday 6 pm to midnight. Licensed. Access: barrier-free. Rating: NNN
Seven Numbers 343 Eglinton West, at Braemar, 416-322-5183. Since its opening, this oddly named resto has been one of north Toronto’n’s hottest spots. The draw? Co-owner/chef Rosa Marinuzzi spent 10 years in Gio’n’s chaotic kitchen. With the addition of affable son Vito, the team turns this 30-seat southern Italian trat decorated with burlap sacks and kraft paper into a non-stop party. And like Gio’n’s, everything on the card is à la carte and tapas-sized. Vegetarian highlights: sweet grilled red pepper stuffed with arugula and goat cheese grease-free spinach, tomato and ricotta fritters old-school spaghetti with intense oven-roasted tomato and bitter rapini sides such as melt-in-the-mouth breaded eggplant stuffed with spinach and cheese or chili-spiked green beans classically simple desserts like sharp lemon tart in buttery pastry. Complete dinners for $35 per person, including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Open for dinner Tuesday to Sunday 5 to 11 pm. Closed Monday. Licensed. Cash only. Access: barrier-free. Rating: NNNN
Japanese
Airport Lounge 492 College, at Palmerston, 416-921-3047. Now entering its third season, this 70s-inspired psychedelic funkateria complete with pink shag, Phillipe Starck plexi perches and light fixtures from the Charlton Heston flick Soylent Green is still the hottest thing on the strip. Unlike neighbouring it spots, there’n’s more on offer here than hyper ‘n’tude, valet parking and champagne-swilling toffs. A recent shake-up has former Canoe chef Timothy Ng parachuting. His replacement, ex-sous Edwin To, continues to launch tsunamis of taste with globally twisted tapas-style takes on Japanese tradition. Vegetarian highlights: the ever-evolving $18 vegetarian sushi set that can include the likes of tiny fiddleheads bound to rice by nori ribbons, roasted Jerusalem artichoke wrapped in arugula, or grilled asparagus and broccolini rolls with sake-infused soy for afters, strawberry tempura with melting chocolate heart and peppermint nip, or Stilton ice cream. Complete dinners for $50 per person, including all taxes, tip and a martini. Open Tuesday to Saturday 6 pm to 2 am. Closed Sunday, Monday. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN
Mariko 348 Danforth, at Chester, 416-463-8231. Hidden behind the Big Carrot, this minimally appointed sushi bar – paper lanterns, a pair of wooden booths – presents straightforward takes on traditional japonica. Vegetarian highlights: 38-piece vegetarian sushi special – cuke, carrot, avocado, deep-fried tofu, California – made with whole grain brown rice, dude, and sided with miso soup licorice-like slivered hijiki or mixed greens over soba-noodle salads for dessert, tofu custard over green tea ice cream with maple syrup. Complete dinners for $25 per person ($15 lunch), including all taxes, tip and a bottle of Japanese beer or a glass of sake. Open Monday to Saturday for lunch noon to 2:30 pm, for dinner 5:30 to 10:30 pm, Sunday and holidays 5:30 to 9 pm. Licensed. Access: barrier-free. Rating: NNN
Tempo 596 College, at Clinton, 416-531-2822. Sushi meister Tom Thai continues to create cutting-edge Japanese fare at the epicentre of College Street cool. While Thai’n’s avant-garde sushi deserves centre stage, late-night DJs steal the limelight and the serenity. Vegetarian highlights: spectacular veggie maki like roasted wild mushroom, or inari tofu pouches stuffed with sushi rice and toasted pine nuts sautéed pickled fiddlehead hand roll Thai’s Pad – hey, everybody else does it, and his name is Thai – twisted Japanese-style to finish, green tea crème brûlée. Complete dinners for $50 per person, including all taxes, tip and a glass of sake. Open for dinner Sunday to Thursday 6 to 11 pm, Friday and Saturday 6 pm to midnight, Sunday 6 to 10 pm. Bar till 2 am. Closed holidays. Licensed. Access: barrier-free, three steps to washrooms. Rating: NNNN
Latin
El Sol 1448 Danforth, at Monarch Park, 416-405-8074. Decked out in folk art, this family-run cantina is easily the best in town serving way-south-of-the-border fare. Warm service, casual digs and authentic northern Mexican grub push El Sol several notches above its competitors. Warning: because co-owner chef Yolanda Paez makes everything – everything! – to order, delivery can be snail-paced, so either order ahead from home or be patient and down another margarita. Vegetarian highlights: 65-spice Enchilladas de Mole, an all veggie tangle of soft tortilla-wrapped peppers, tomato and onion in an ethereal hot-chili-and-dark-chocolate sauce, sided with roasted tomato rice and flavour-intense, slow-cooked refried beans egg-battered Chile Relleno, a huge sweet red pepper stuffed with green olives, cubed potato and raisins in pulpy tomato wine sauce super chili-spiked salsa. Complete meals for $35 per person, including all taxes, tip and a lime-spiked Michelada beer. Open Tuesday to Sunday 3 to 11 pm. Closed Monday. Licensed. Access: barrier-free. Rating: NNNN
Mediterranean
MUSA 847 Dundas West, at Euclid, 416-368-8484. Since its opening two years ago, this low-key neighbourhood noshery has been offering contemporary takes on casual Greek and Turkish mezes in a delightful funky-fresh al fresco setting. Along with Saving Grace, the new Dundas hip starts here. Vegetarian highlights: sensational seasonal stir-frys like dandelion greens and rapini sautéed in olive oil and garlic and mixed with navy beans in a lemony vinaigrette, or steamed then lightly sautéed Swiss chard and collard greens topped with evil-eye-preventing raw garlic in red wine dressing almost-main salads include phyllo-wrapped goat cheese over grilled veggies and pear, or chili-marinated ‘shrooms with sliced avocado and beets over sesame-seed-dusted romaine at brunch, fruit-topped challah French toast with maple syrup. Complete dinners for $35 per person ($20 lunch or brunch), including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Open for lunch Tuesday to Friday 11:30 am t0 3 pm, for dinner Tuesday to Sunday 5:30 pm to 2 am. Brunch Saturday and Sunday 10:30 am to 3:30 pm. Closed Monday, holidays. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNN
South Asian
Blue Bay Café 2243 Dundas West, at Roncesvalles, 416-533-8838. A comfy neighbourhood spot, this Mauritian restaurant serves spice-powered dishes that combine elements of Indian, Thai, French, Cajun and African cooking. Call it crossroads cuisine. Figure in a low-fat, low-carb lineup and extremely reasonable prices and it’s easy to understand Blue Bay’s long-running success. Vegetarian highlights: mains like Touffe Legume, mixed Asian veggies spiked with tiny red Thai chilies Mine Frire, a hot and cold collision of spaghetti-like noodles and crunchy napa cabbage a tasty Indo take on ratatouille Provençal okra fricassée with tomato and onion sides for later, smooth passion-fruit sorbet. Complete dinners for $30 per person, including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine or an imported beer. Open for dinner Tuesday to Sunday 5 to 10 pm. Closed Monday. Licensed. Access: barrier-free. Rating: NNN
Trimurti 265 Queen West, at Duncan, 416-645-0286. When a pair of floor vets and a cook from Annex fave Nataraj opened their own spot, they bettered much of the Bloor eatery’s north Indian menu. And the daily all-you-can-eat buffet is one of the tastiest meal deals in town. Vegetarian highlights: Phool Gobi Tandoor, a whole flaming red yogurt-marinated head of cauliflower fired in the tandoor that looks like psychedelic brains Chili Paneer, mild Indian cheese with major chilies and onion amazing naan, blistered from the oven and cracker-thin. Complete dinners for $30 per person ($18 lunch), including all taxes, tip and an imported beer. Open daily for an $9.95 all-you-can-eat lunch buffet from 11:30 am to 2:30 pm, à la carte dinner 5:30 to 10:30 pm. Licensed. Access: barrier-free. Rating: NNN
