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Selina Drake and Neil Dominey. Photo by Rick Ponte.
There's your garden-variety mystery-meat Greektown gyro and then there's your Halifax-style donair, a seemingly similar wrap with a sometimes gag-inducing difference: a sickly sweet white sauce made with evaporated milk and garlic salt.
East Coast pats swear by them - and it helps to be drunk - but, other than the fancy-pants version served at Geooff Hopgood's Foodliner, no one in Toronto makes them correctly.
Enter Neil Dominey and the Fuzz Box (1246 Danforth, at Greenwood, 416-769-1432, thefuzzbox.ca), Hogtown's first Haligonian donair shop. The joint's not been in business four days and it's already selling out nightly. Little wonder when grilled pitas get stuffed with slices of spicy reconfigured beef and dressed with diced tomato, Spanish onion and that weird sweet slimy sauce ($4.99 small/$5.99 regular/$8.99 super). Blueberry grunt ($4.49), garlic fingers ($5.99) and deep-fried pepperoni ($4.99), too.
We can only ask why?
"There's a lot of east coasters here so there's a demand," says the Annapolis Valley-born Dominey. "And I got tired of waiting for somebody else to do it."
Monday to Saturday 11 am to 8 pm. Closed Sunday, holidays. Unlicensed. Access: barrier-free, washrooms in basement.