While the great Chippy's debate rages on NOW's letters page, year-old White Brothers' upscale version of fish and chips ($7.50) has given rise to little controversy. True, the halibut's flash-frozen, but the batter's crisp, the fries hand-cut, the tartar sauce tangy and the coleslaw creamy perfection.
Low-cal salad combos ($5.95) like multi-lettuce, melon, grapes and cottage cheese with a notable puréed raspberry balsamic vinaigrette can be sensibly sided with Cajun-style blackened or white-wine-sauced fish ($14.95).
With dreadlocked brother Marc behind the deep fryer, amiable Chris White works the takeout counter and waits the nautically themed space's few tables. His opening gambit to the table next to us:
"You guys wanna play with some plastic forks?"
To the relief of their frazzled moms, the hyper three-year-olds squeal they do.
WHITE BROTHERS FISH COMPANY (2248 Queen East, at Beech, 416-694-3474) Fancy fish fryer to the gentry. Small, nautically themed space provides a few eat-in tables next to a well-ventilated open kitchen. Go traditional or upscale. Complete meals for $20 per person, including all taxes, tip and a Stella. Open Tuesday to Sunday 4 to 9 pm, except Friday noon to 9 pm. Closed Monday. Licensed. Access: short step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN